fly tying for saltwater - Tail Fly Fishing Magazine

Ruben Martin’s Epoxy Crab: Permit Fly

Admin — Mon, 17 Oct 2022 16:59:17 +0000

Ruben Martin is a fly fishing guru from Argentina who shared one of his exquisite crab patterns for permit with us. It’s a great pattern and although it looks complicated, it’s not a difficult pattern to tie. Give it a try and email us with any questions.

Material list:

Hook: AHREX NS 122 Light Stinger or NS 172 Curved Gammarus.

Thread: UNI 8/0 o Veevus 8/0

Weight: bead chains

Antennas: 0X monofilament

Rostrum: Rabbit hair

Eyes: Monofilament or similar

Claws and legs: ultra chenille

Shell: Hard plastic material curved

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Step 1 : Tie in pair of bead chain eyes.

Step 2: Tie in a second pair of bead chain eyes.

Step 3: Attach two pieces of monofilament as antennas, and paint it with permanent marker of brown color with black dots. This step can be skipped if you don’t want antennas.

Step 4: Tie in a small tuft of tan colored rabbit hair.

Step 5 :Make two monofilament eyes, burning the tip with a lighter.

Step 6: Cut off excess monofilament and secure with thread wraps.

Step 7: With a piece of Ultra Chenille build the claws, for this we only have to take the Chenille and make a simple knot, then we cut the desired length. Then, carefully burn the tips with a lighter.

Step 8: Prepare a little quick-drying epoxy glue ( I use Poxipol because it has the ability to remain in place because of its consistency).

Step 9: With the same Vernille or Ultra Chenille of tan color, prepare the legs, cutting six small pieces and burning a tip of each piece with the lighter.

Step 10: Put glue on the bottom of the hook.

Step 11: Add the shell- a small piece of semi-curvoid plastic that shaped with scissors. I use plastic spangles that are available in craft houses.

Step 12: Once the glue is dry and the parts are affixed, paint the shell and the top parts of the claws and paws.

Step 13: On the bottom, paint the glue with some glaze or lacquer with glitter.

Materials used, Lacquers and permanent markers used to color the imitation.

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The post Ruben Martin’s Epoxy Crab: Permit Fly first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Ruben Martin’s Epoxy Crab: Permit Fly appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Tying Drew Chicone’s Contraband Crab

Admin — Sun, 16 Oct 2022 17:51:28 +0000

The Contraband Crab is a confluence of several of my favorite crab patterns: Bauer Crab, Scotch-Brite Crab and McFly Crab. My goal was to incorporate all my favorite attributes or “abilities” and overcoming each pattern’s shortcomings.

The Bauer Crab is a fly box staple since the 1970s. Its iconic, knotted square rubber legs allow the segment below the knot to be positioned in a rearward-facing direction giving this pattern a very realistic silhouette. When purchasing this pattern from your local fly shop, you will find that the cheap (usually dull) hook is bent to create a larger hook-gape. This weakens the integrity of the hook—not to mention altering its effectiveness. If the eyes are inserted into the wool with too much glue, the wool fibers wick the glue and stiffen as the glue cures, leaving you with a great looking “teaser” with insufficient gape.

The Scotch-Brite pattern is my variation on the Raghead Crab. I did not like the flat, unrealistic look of felt, so I searched for years to replace the material with something that was thicker, more durable and also provided a more mottled look. After a little experimentation, I found that Scotch-Brite pads can be stamped to shape and cut in half to sandwich the hook. This provided the look I was after. But the feather claws were on the rear of the fly, not the front, and the splayed round rubber legs shooting in every direction looked like a spider that was smacked with a flip-flop. Although the round rubber legs were excellent for movement, they were not durable. And they were terrible for holding the color applied with a permanent marker. After being exposed to salt water for a few hours, the color either faded away or smeared everywhere.

The McFly Foam Crab was my fix to the majority of these issues. Yet I ran into some new problems when I tried to scale the pattern down to extremely small sizes. The pattern utilizes a Mustad C68SNP-DT, which is perfect if you are looking for a nickel-sized crab, but this hook was not as effective for matching dime-size crabs or smaller due to the wire thickness in the smaller-sized hooks.

As a commercial fly tier, you can gather a lot of info from the orders that you get based on the location or species the anglers intend to fish. Each year it seems that the flies for all species (especially tarpon and permit) get smaller and smaller as these fish become more pressured and in turn more wary. Matching custom requests is typically not a problem. However, some materials are simply not scalable or available in smaller sizes or colors. With materials such as McFly Foam, using less to create a smaller fly does not respond the same as the original recipe—so you risk losing the realistic look or the functionality for which you picked the material in the first place. As the hook size decreases, so does the hook gape, wire and strength, which becomes a huge issue, especially when it comes to crab patterns for plus-sized permit. The obvious fix would be to go to a larger or wider-gape hook. But this is no improvement if the fly doesn’t look natural and the fish refuse it.

In order for your fly to mimic the intended prey, it must sink at the same speed as a natural. A fly that moves too slowly or too quickly through the water column is a red flag to permit. A refusal usually follows.

Permit have huge eyes for acute vision. They often follow a fly and examine it as it is stripped all the way back to the boat. In the past, I have talked about the idea of black hooks having a tendency to silhouette over white sand and become potentially more visible in clear water. However, over the last few years this hypothesis is believed by many—including me—to be untrue. Larger fish or fish that experience a lot of pressure seem to be more spooked by the glint from a silver hook. Now I tend to tie with both black and silver hooks to hedge for any situation.

When choosing crab patterns to fill your box, I like patterns that can be easily modified on the water and fished effectively anywhere. The materials utilized in the Contraband Crab pattern all hold color well and can be easily modified markers to mimic a unique prey’s colorations that you may encounter on the water.

Materials

Hook: Black Gamakatsu L11s-3H, size 6

Thread: Olive Danville 210 denier Flat Waxed Nylon

Eyes: 5/32nd black nickel brass dumbbell; large black EP Shrimp & Crab Eyes

Legs: Large gray square rubber

Claws: Olive Micro Chenille

Body: Tan Scotch-Brite, Greener Clean Non-Scratch Scour Pad

Adhesive: Clear e6000 Glue; White Tulip Fabric Paint

Marker: Copic YG95 Pale Olive for body; Copic E57 Light Walnut for claws

Tying Steps

STEP 1: Start the thread at the eye of the hook and wrap backward, creating an even thread layer ending in the middle of the hook shank.

STEP 2: Tie in the dumbbell eyes with a series of tight figure-eight and doughnut wraps.

STEP 3: Continue wrapping toward the bend, covering the entire hook shank with an even layer of thread. Once you reach the bend of the hook, advance the thread back to the eye. This layer of thread will provide a better bond when gluing the body of the crab to the hook assembly.

STEP 4: Whip finish at the eye of the hook, cut away the thread and set the prepped hook aside.

STEP 5: I like to tie up several of these in advance to save time.

STEP 6: Fold two three-inch pieces of chenille in half and tie a knot about a quarter-inch from the folded end. Cut the loops to create claws. Mark with a brown or olive permanent marker for a mottled look.

STEP 7: Cut a two-and-a-quarter-inch section of square rubber legs. Separate two legs from the strip.

STEP 8: Tie an overhand knot approximately three-quarters of an inch from one end.

STEP 9: Tie a second knot on the other side of the leg, approximately three-quarters of an inch from the other end. More than likely, the segmented portions of the leg beyond the knot will be facing in different directions, and that is okay.

STEP 10: Roll one or both of the knots until the segmented portions of the legs are approximately the same length and are pointing in the same direction. Repeat on the second leg. Do your best to make the knots on the second leg slightly closer together than the first. This is very difficult to achieve and maintain with any kind of consistency using a round rubber leg or thinner flat silicone leg. This is why the square rubber legs are so important.

STEP 11: Using a crab-shaped cutter, stamp out the shell of the crab from a sheet of Scotch-Brite, Greener Clean Non-Scratch Scour Pad. If you do not have a crab-shaped cutter, simply trace a dime on the pad and cut it with scissors.

STEP 12: Using a serrated knife or micro-serrated scissors, carefully cut the pad in half from end to end.

STEP 13: When you are finished, you should have two matching crab bodies, half the width of the original pad. This is essential, because the original pad is too thick and will impede the gape of the hook when the Crab is assembled.

STEP 14: Lay out all the parts of the crab to be assembled. The rubber leg with the knots closer together will be positioned below the other leg. Trim the longer portions of the claws slightly, so they will fit onto the body of the crab.

STEP 15: E6000 is the best glue I have found for assembling the crab bodies. If you are tying up multiple bodies at the same time, however, you can substitute the E6000 for fabric paint that matches the desired color of the finished crab. The thinner paint has a tendency to wick through the body material, but it works well to glue the appendages to the body.

STEP 16: Begin assembly by laying the pair of EP Shrimp & Crab Eyes in to the glue. Cut away the portion of the mono post that sticks out beyond the Scotch-Brite Pad. The black eye should stick out slightly, beyond the body. The butts of the mono post should be angled to create a V shape. Next, place the legs into the glue so that the segmented portions beyond the knots point backward in the same direction. Complete the assembly by placing the claws at a 45-degree angle. The knots of the claws should stick out beyond the Scotch-Brite Pad and line up approximately with the eyes. Set aside to dry.

STEP 17: After the body assembly is completely dry, place the hook in the vise, point up. Place a pea-sized bead of glue on top of the hook and above the dumbbell eyes.

STEP 18: Center the body of the crab on top of the dumbbell eye.

STEP 19: Using a bodkin, spread the glue evenly on the exposed thread wraps and dumbbell eyes. This will create a much better bond between the body and the hook.

STEP 20: With your index finger, press and hold the body in place for 20 to 30 seconds until the glue starts to set up. Make sure that the body does not cover the eye of the hook.

STEP 21: Once the glue is thoroughly dry, trim the segmented portions of the leg to approximately half an inch.

STEP 22: Place a loop of blue painters tape on an index card and stick the crab to the tape on top. This will keep the fly from blowing away when coloring it with the Copic airbrush or markers.

STEP 23: Select your color of choice, and spray the shell and legs of the crab. If you do not have an airbrush, mark these portions with a permanent marker.

STEP 24: Allow ample time to dry, then turn the fly over and color the underside of the crab. (If using a Copic airbrush, you must spray the fly with a layer of clear coat to insure that the ink does not fade.)

STEP 25: Cover the exposed thread wraps and dumbbell eyes with a thin layer of fabric paint. Most crabs are white on the underside, but feel free to match the fabric paint color to the crabs you are trying to imitate.

see more from Drew Chicone at: saltyflytying.com

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The post Tying Drew Chicone’s Contraband Crab first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Tying Drew Chicone’s Contraband Crab appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Flat-Wing Sand Eel | Barry Ord Clarke

-TFFM Admin — Sun, 10 Jan 2021 07:57:52 +0000

The late Bill Peabody credited Rhode Island fly anger Ken Abrames with developing the tying style whose variations are known collectively as Flat-Wings. However, Bill probably did as much as anyone to popularize the style. Also, Bill’s signature rendition, the Rhody Flat-Wing, is distinct in that it uses only a single saddle hackle for the tail rather than the multiple hackles found in Abrames’ variations.

In his lifetime, Bill Peabody’s work did not get the accolades that were given to some of his contemporaries. Part of the reason for this, I believe, can be attributed to Bill’s character. He was soft-spoken and unassuming, not one to call attention to himself. However, the best saltwater fly tiers of that era all knew Bill’s work and had the utmost respect for him—as did I.

I can think of no more fitting tribute to Bill Peabody than to demonstrate how his influence in the world of saltwater fly tying remains strong—internationally—more than 20 years after his death. So let us introduce master fly tier Barry Ord Clarke, born and raised in the United Kingdom and now living in Norway, who is keeping Bill Peabody’s work alive for the times. I think Bill would be humbled.

—George Roberts

Drawing inspiration from the late Bill Peabody’s original Rhody Flat-Wing, this sand eel imitation has proven to be a very effective pattern from early summer, when sea trout begin feeding on the large shoals of sand eels that arrive along the coast of Norway. Although these native sea-run brown trout (or sea trout, as they are more commonly called) generally feed à la carte, there are a few occasions during the season when they become more selective with their feeding.

One of the things I love about Flat-Wings is that they fulfill a basic set of requirements of tying and fishing larger patterns. They require only a few basic materials, which the majority of fly tiers most certainly have to hand. You can make them as simple or as complex as you wish. I’ve even tied some variations that I’ve named Saltwater Classics, which are as complicated and decorative as classic salmon flies. Although they’re light and easy to cast, even when wet, Flat-Wings give the impression of volume—not to mention the movement these patterns have….

One of the most common questions I get asked concerns the size of the hook in relation to the overall length of the fly: “Won’t the fish just bite at the tail?” You may occasionally encounter small fish that, simply because of their size, are eager but incapable. But generally speaking, most fish attack the Flat-Wing Sand Eel with great enthusiasm, ensuring solid hookups.

On examining the stomach contents of many sea trout over the years, I’ve yet to find a sand eel that wasn’t swallowed head-first. This tells me that the eyes on baitfish are an important trigger and attack point. Albeit totally unscientific, I have tied the Flat-Wing Sand Eel both with and without jungle cock, and I’m under no illusion as to which takes more fish!

The long, slender sand lance, more commonly known as the sand eel (family Ammodytidae), spends much of its time burrowed in the sand, especially at night and on overcast days. This indicates that it relies on good light in order to find food. Like many other bottom-dwelling fish, the sand eel has no swim bladder. It must therefore be constantly on the move—otherwise it will sink to the bottom. The first year after hatching, the sand eel is about 10 cm long (nearly 4 inches) and is almost transparent. Adult fish are a flashy silver-gold with a greenish back. Adults range from 15 cm to a huge 30 cm (6 to nearly 12 inches) in length.

Materials

Hook: Mustad C70S, sizes 4 and 2.
Thread: Dyneema 55 or GSP 50 (gel spun polyethylene), colored with a black felt pen at the head.
Tail: White bucktail and a single golden badger saddle hackle.
Body: Bill’s Bodi-Braid, gold or copper.
Throat: White bucktail.
Wing: Yellow bucktail, blue bucktail, and blue Veniard Fringe Wing.
Topping: Six strands of peacock herl.
Cheeks: Jungle cock, natural or imitation.

Step 1. Secure your saltwater hook in the vice as shown with the hook shank horizontal. Attach your tying thread just behind the hook eye and run a foundation over the hook shank until your thread hangs between the hook point and barb.

Step 2. Cut a small bunch of hair from the base of a white bucktail. Clean the bunch by removing any underfur or short hairs. Tie this in as shown so that it flares a little. Secure over the entire length of the shank.

Step 3. Now make another, tighter run over the whole hook shank with tying thread to tighten the whole body, then trim away the flared surplus hair over the hook eye.

Step 4. Select a single golden badger saddle hackle for the tail. Without removing any of the downy fibers, tie in the hackle over the bucktail and directly on top of the shank. The hackle should be approximately twice the length of the bucktail.

Step 5. Cut a length of your chosen Bodi-Braid and tie this in over the full length of the hook shank, finishing as shown at the tail base.

Step 6. Wrap the Bodi-Braid forward over the hook shank so that you build up a short cigar taper, finishing a short distance behind the hook eye.

Step 7. Cut another small bunch of white bucktail, this time from the tip of the tail (the hair from the tip doesn’t flare as much as the hair from the base). Clean the bunch by removing any shorter hairs. Turn the hook upside down in the vise or rotate your vice and tie in the bucktail as a throat. This should be approximately as long as the tail hair.

Step 8. Return your hook to its original position and tie down the trimmed ends of the throat. Next, cut a length of long straight yellow bucktail from the tip of a tail and tie this in as shown for the underwing. Take care that you don’t use too much hair; it should be just a little larger the the bunch you used for the throat.

Step 9. Veniard Fringe Wing is an excellent flash material for winging medium-size saltwater patterns and is available in many colors. You’ll see the sheet of Fringe Wing is “welded” at one end. This makes it very easy to handle. Just cut a thin strip through the weld and tear off exactly the amount you need. The weld will hold all the strands in position when you’re tying it in. Lay the Fringe Wing flat on top of the yellow buck tail and secure behind the hook eye.

Step 10. You will now need a small bunch of blue bucktail for the overwing. Clean and tie in as with the previous yellow bunch.

Step 11. The topping for the wing is best when you use the fibers from just under the eye of a peacock tail feather. These are a little stiffer and considerably stronger than the herl that is found lower down on the quill. Select five or six strands of herl that are a little longer than the hair wing. Tie these in directly on top of the hook shank. Once secure, trim away the surplus and tidy up the head with a few wraps of tying thread.

Step 12. If you are using Dyneema or GSP tying thread, use a waterproof black felt pen to color the thread black. Make a few wraps of black thread close into the wing base as shown.

Step 13. Select two jungle cock hackles of the same size for the cheeks and tie one in at each side of the head as shown. (If you don’t have natural jungle cock, there are a number of artificial substitutes available, such as the ones manufactured by Pro.Sportfisher.)

Step 14. Once the jungle cock cheeks are secure, color a little more of your thread black and cover the head with a few wraps. Whip finish and remove your tying thread. Now you can finish off the fly by giving the head two or three coats of head cement.

Step 15. Once the head cement has dried, remove the fly from the vise. Soak the fly in warm water and stroke the wing back and together. Then place the fly in a warm area to dry. Once dry, the wing and throat will be positioned correctly. All you need to do now is add water….

Here’s the YouTube video of tying the pattern:

Bio: Barry Ord Clark is an angler, fly tier, and photographer of international renown. He is the author of several books on fly fishing, the most recent of which is The Feather Bender’s Flytying Techniques (Skyhorse Publishing, 2019). Barry grew up in England but now lives in Norway. Be sure to visit his fly tying website (thefeatherbender.com).

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Soft Chew Wiggler 2.0

The post Flat-Wing Sand Eel | Barry Ord Clarke first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Flat-Wing Sand Eel | Barry Ord Clarke appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.