by Joseph Ballarini

It was perhaps legendary Keys guide Harry Spear who originated the very effective style of fly that sports a flat body, allowing for linear movement without spinning. Spear used his Tasty Toad to target the large, spooky bonefish off Islamorada. The Toad landed softly, sank quickly, and refused to spin even when stripped aggressively.

You’ll see this same concept manifest in a number of subsequent flats flies, including Del Brown’s Merkin, the Tarpon Toad (with which Andy Mill has won five Gold Cups), the Kwan Fly (for redfish), and most recently, Dave Skok’s Merkin Shrimp. This concept is also the basis for the Bob Branham’s M. O. E. (Mother of Epoxy) Fly, which has proved itself deadly on permit.

One of my favorite pattens for bonefish and permit is Peterson’s Spawning Shrimp. However, this fly does spin if stripped aggressively, so I stopped using it in Biscayne Bay in favor of Branham’s M. O. E.

Eventually I got the idea to combine the best aspects of Peterson’s Spawning Shrimp with the technical aspects of Branham’s fly—with a few personal touches. I thought the Evolution was an appropriate name, since it’s best described as a mashup of two existing patterns.

The Evolution has superb action, is effective, and is relatively easy to tie. I’ve tested it everywhere I’ve fished, and it seldom fails to produce. In green, the Evolution is my go-to fly in Mexico and Belize. In Florida I prefer pink and ginger; in the Bahamas, pink and tan.  But you can tie it in any color combination and with any head color. Frankly, I don’t think the colored head really matters much for fishing, but they sure do look nice in the box.

If you have any questions, you can email me at admin@tailflyfishing.com.

Materials

Hook: Mustad S74SNP-DT 2XH/4XL size 6 long shank
Thread: Danville flat waxed nylon, 210 denier, pink
Tail: Orange fox and tan Craft Fur (alternatively, I use golden doodle fur after our dog is groomed), flanked at each side with a thin barred ginger hackle tied splayed
Antennae: Black Krystal Flash (optional)
Legs: Tan barred silicone ( I color mine by hand with brown and black markers Borski-style, but the commercial versions work well also)
Eyes: small red shrimp eyes
Flash: Tan Krystal Flash
Wing: Barred tan rabbit fur
Weight: I-Balz
Head: 5-minute epoxy tinted with fine orange glitter

Step 1: Tie in a base of thread on the hook shank above the point.
Tie in orange fox fur, leaving about 1/4 inch beyond the bend of the hook.

Step 2: Measure and trim the trailing portion of fur to bend back over the the bend of the hook and tie in creating a slight bulge for the legs and eyes in the upcoming steps.

Step 3: Tie in craft fur (or dog fur) that should be about twice the length of the fox fur.

Step 4: Tie in two small barred ginger hackles, splayed and extending to approximately the length of the Craft Fur.

Step 5: Tie in black Krystal Flash so it extends slightly beyond the tan Craft Fur (optional, not shown).
Tie in one of the silicone legs so that it extends the length of the Craft Fur (you can trim the legs later, if you wish).

Step 6: Tie in another silicone leg on the other side of the tail. Tie in one of the shrimp eyes to flank the tail. 

Step 7: Tie in the the other eye. The shrimp eyes should extend beyond the bend of the hook by about 1/8 inch.

Step 8: Tie in tan Krystal Flash on the underside of the tail.

Step 9: Tie in the weighted eyes. I-Balz have a wider gap and result in a flatter head on the finished fly.

Step 10: Tie in the first section of barred rabbit for the wing on the underside of the shank.

Step 11: Tie in the second section of wing, just in front of the first and behind the weighted eyes.

Step 12: Wrap the thread to just behind the eye of the hook and whip finish.

Step 13: Mix the two parts of 5-minute epoxy along with the glitter. 

Step 14: When the epoxy is mixed, place a small amount on the eyes. You will need much less epoxy than you think.
The big mistake here is adding too much epoxy and not leaving enough space for a flat, lightweight head.

Step 15: As the epoxy begins to firm, wet your fingers and shape the head using your thumb and index finger to flatten and smooth the epoxy. The key is wet fingers so the epoxy does not stick to your hands. Shape and smooth the head until it’s flat, smooth, and symmetrical.

Heres a quick smart phone video showing how to make the head

Subscribe to Tail Fly Fishing Magazine for the great features, the unique and effective saltwater fly tying and other information that will undoubtedly make you a better angler.  Here are some links to more great fly tying features…

Candy Corn Crawler

Soft Chew Wiggler 2.0

Saltwater Fly Fishing: Saltwater flies – Hammerhead Crab

Characteristics of a Great Bonefish Fly

The post The Evolution Shrimp Fly first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post The Evolution Shrimp Fly appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Step by step fly tying instructions

Materials list:

• Medium Double Barrel Popper and Slider Bodies from Flymen Fishing Company
• Surface Seducer Popper hook #2
• White Marabou
• Pearl Crystal Flash
• Red MFC Bunny Brush
• Living eyes from Flymen Fishing Company
• White flat waxed nylon thread

Step 1

Use a bodkin or a large needle to create the hole for the hook shank to slide through. Be sure to start at the rear of the popper head and gently push straight thru to the front of the popper head.

Step 2

Place the hook in the vise and slide the popper head onto the shank of the hook to ensure proper fit.

Step 3

Begin the thread wraps just behind the hook eye and wrap evenly back to just before the bend of the hook.

Step 4

Tie in the Marabou tail and secure evenly. I personally like to parachute post the tail once tied in to help prevent fouling. Once posted I secure the tail lightly back towards the hook shank.

Step 5

Tie in a few strands of pearl crystal flash on each side of the marabou.

Step 6

Tie in the bunny brush just in front of the marabou and secure evenly.

Step 7

advance the thread forward to where the back of the popper will be. Then palmer the bunny brush forward using caution not to trap the fibers while palmering forward. Once palmered all the way to the thread secure the brush and trim off excess.

Step 8

Whip finish and trim off the thread. Add a small amount of super glue to the thread wraps and attach popper head ensuring a proper fit.

Step 9

Glue in desired eyes to recessed eye socket.

Step 10

GO FISH

All Photos by: Michael Klein

Fly tied by Capt. Rick Worman of Flatline Guide Service located in Merritt Island FL,  Special thanks to Harry Goodes Outdoor shop located in Melbourne Fl.

Saltwater Fly Tying – The Salty Stripper

Flat-Wing Sand Eel | Barry Ord Clarke

Candy Corn Crawler

The post Saltwater Popper first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Saltwater Popper appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

My good friend E. J. Sigety is a very skilled fly angler, creative fly tier, and a wealth of fly fishing knowledge. One of his favorite smallmouth bass patterns is the Lazy Stripper SBS. In this feature we’re going to put a salty twist on the pattern. We’ve dubbed this fly the Salty Stripper SBS. It’s an effective pattern to throw into the mangroves for snook and baby tarpon. You can also tie it larger to throw at big laid-up tarpon using an 11- weight. The marabou tail gives this fly amazing action even at a standstill, while the synthetic EP fiber head and body make it very functional and durable.

Materials:

• Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 or similar, 2/0
• Threads: Danville 210 Denier Thread (any color); Danville Monofilament Thread (.006 diameter)
• Adhesive:  Zap Goo   
• Tail: Marabou, white and olive
• Flash: Gold Flashabou and gold Krystal Flash
• Gills: Red EP Silky Fibers
• Body and Head: EP Sculpt-A-Fly Fibers, sand and white
• Eyes: EP Plastic Eyes, 5.5 millimeters

Step 1. Start with any color of Danville 210 thread. We’ll eventually switch to mono, but standard thread makes tying in the first materials much easier. Attach your thread on the shank above the hook point and wrap back to above the barb. Trim off the tag end.

Step 2. Take one white marabou feather and measure your tail length. For a 2/0 fly we normally use about a 2-inch section. secure that tightly to the top of the shank with thread wraps.

Step 3. Measure your olive marabou feather. You want this to be just a bit longer than the white marabou. Secure this on top of the white marabou and trim the excess.

Step 4. Take several stands of gold Flashabou and V-wrap it along both sides of the tail so that it runs down the middle of the olive marabou feather. Trim the strands so that they’re about a half-inch longer than the marabou. After that’s secure, take about five strands of gold Krystal Flash and tie them in so they rest directly on top of the marabou.

Step 5. Move your thread in front of where the feathers are secured, whip finish, and cut your thread. Attach your monofilament thread where you left off and hit it with a dab of Zap Goo. Next, take a 2-inch length of red EP Silky Fibers and V-wrap on the bottom 2 quarters of the hook shank. These are going to suggest the fish’s gills. Once secure, press the fibers up and trim them at an angle.

Step 6. Take your sand-colored EP Sculpt-A-Fly Fibers and prepare the three pieces you’ll need to make the body and head of the fly. (You’ll also do the same with the white fibers.) Each piece you tie in will get progressively shorter. Begin with a bunch that’s about 50 fibers thick. When you twist them to compress them, they should be about the same thickness as a toothpick (always err on the side of fewer fibers). Prepare by cutting a sand-colored section that’s 3 inches long, a section that’s 2 1/2 inches long, and a section that’s 2 inches long. Then prepare three sections of white fibers as well in the same lengths as above. Once all six sections are measured and cut, put a taper on each end of all sections. Doing this before you tie them in will help with post-production trimming and avoid creating a fly that looks like a paintbrush. Take your 3-inch section of sand-colored fibers and secure them at midpoint with several wraps of mono to the top left quarter of the hook shank. Bend the other half of the fibers around and tie them down the top right quarter. The result should look like Image 6a.

Step 7. Rotate the head of the vise or invert the hook and tie in the 3-inch section of white fibers along the bottom of the hook shank in the same manner. The result should look like Image 7a.

Step 8. Move your thread forward and repeat the above instructions with both of your 2 1/2-inch sections, and then again with your 2-inch sections. If, along the way, the fibers start to puff out or get tangled, combing them with a lice brush should fix things. When you’ve fastened all sections, your fly will resemble that in Image 8.

Step 9. Because you took the time to taper the ends of the fiber sections before you tied them in, your trimming time should now be significantly less. Take your scissors and simply clean up the fly a bit to suggest a baitfish form. (I highly recommend the EP 4 1/2-inch scissors, which are excellent for trimming synthetics).

Step 10. Use a cautery pen to burn two small holes in the fibers to place the eyes. These holes should be burned even with the point of the hook. Use flush cutters to snip off most of the posts of the plastic eyes. Use a bodkin to place a generous amount of Zap Goo in one of the eye holes. Place a plastic eye into the glue-filled hole so that the post is both covered with glue and touching the shank of the hook. Repeat on the opposite side of the fly. If you do this correctly the eyes will be bulletproof.

Bio: Nick Davis is the co-owner of 239 Flies & Outfitter in Bonita Beach, Florida, which began as an online retailer selling one-off fly patterns and now occupies 2,600 feet of retail space. You can learn more about Nick and 239 Flies by visiting his website (239flies.com) or his Instagram (#BuildingFuzzyEmpires).

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Worm Swarming—At Long Last

Flat-Wing Sand Eel | Barry Ord Clarke

Soft Chew Wiggler 2.0

Candy Corn Crawler

The post Saltwater Fly Tying – The Salty Stripper first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Saltwater Fly Tying – The Salty Stripper appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Loon Outdoors UV Infiniti Light

This UV light is powerful enough to cure fly after fly in seconds, and when it runs out of power there’s no need to fumble around looking for batteries because you can recharge it using any standard USB cable. Before long tying sessions you can check the light’s power status using the power level indicator that’s integrated into the on/off switch. Throw in Loon’s unconditional guarantee and you have the last UV light you will ever buy. (loonoutdoors.com)

$60.00

Regal Medallion Vise

The Regal Medallion is a perfect example of the old adage, “Buy once, cry once.” Just open the jaws, insert the hook, and start tying. There’s nothing to adjust. When using the Regal Medallion you don’t think about it, which is exactly how a vise should be. You can tie 8/0 streamers for arapaima down to size-22 midges for trout. The jaws are solid, and the heavy base keeps the vise firmly planted on your tying desk. The Medallion series comes with a choice of six different heads, so you can pick the one best suited to your tying style. (regalvise.com)

$275

Petitjean Magic Heads

The work of Swiss fly fishing innovator Marc Petitjean is nothing short of genius, from his cutting-edge vises to his tying tools and accessories. Magic Heads are soft, clear plastic cones that you tie just behind the eye of the hook. Pushed back, they create a soft bullet head that will push water. Flipped forward, they act as a swimming lip, zigzagging your fly through the water like a terrified baitfish. The largest size will accommodate flies sizes 1/0 to 4/0. (petitjean.com)

$6.95

Renzetti Ruby Tipped Bobbins

Next to a good vise, a good fly tying bobbin is among your most important tools. And there’s nothing more frustrating than to have your thread repeatedly cut by a burr in the tube. Renzetti’s ruby tipped bobbins feature an industrial ruby inserted into the tube that will keep the thread moving smoothly and ensure that your thread never gets cut. Available in two saltwater sizes. These bobbins will last 25 years of continuous use. (renzetti.com)

$22.95

Norvise Automatic Bobbin Kit

If you’ve attended a fly fishing show within the last 25 years, you’ve likely watched Norm Norlander spin out Woolly Buggers at breakneck speed on his rotary Nor-Vise. His automatic bobbin is a noteworthy contribution to fly tying as well. The bobbin features a self-winding arbor that simplifies thread management. The bobbin retracts automatically to the proper position and then hangs suspended from the fly where released. This results in faster, better fly tying. These bobbins work particularly well with rotary vises. You can purchase the automatic bobbin separately, but first-time owners are encouraged to get the kit, which includes three extra spools (required for use with this bobbin), which hold between 50 and 500 yards of thread, depending on the thread diameter. (nor-vise.com)

$95.00

Wapsi German Ice Tempered Fly Tying Scissors by Wasa

Good scissors are critical to good fly tying, particularly when trimming deer hair heads and synthetic materials. Scissors that can handle such work well are few and far between. These scissors, manufactured in Solingen, Germany, are 4 ½” overall with double serrated fine-tip blades of 1 ¾” that will more than get the job done. (wapsifly.net)

$69.00

ThinOptics Readers

Unless you never tie a fly smaller than 4/0, you’ll eventually need a pair of readers. ThinOptics combines the world smallest readers with a number of carry options, including cases small enough to fit on your keychain, in your wallet, or on your phone. They’re inexpensive enough that you’ll want several pair, including one for your fly tying kit. We take ours fishing for when we need to tie on flies, repair leaders, or for any task that requires near vision. Readers come in four lens strengths and six frame colors. (thinoptics.com)

Starting at $19.95

Hareline Dubbin Bling Rabbit Strips

Winner of the International Fly Tackle Dealer’s (IFTD) Best in Show Award for 2019 in the category of Fly Tying Materials, Bling Rabbit Strips incorporate solid and holographic colors attached to the hide. The synthetic material gives rigidity to the strip, reducing the chance that the material will foul when casting. These strips are sure to enhance the look and performance of any saltwater pattern that calls for a zonker strip (think Tarpon Bunny). (hareline.com)

$5.90

Dr. Slick Hook File

In truth, all of us here at TFFM use chemically sharpened hooks. If we ding a hook point, we throw the fly away and get a fresh one. However, we realize not all anglers are like us and that most probably still use stainless steel hooks (as we all did at one time). If you use stainless steel hooks (or plated carbon steel hooks that are not chemically sharpened) you need to carry a hook file. This option from Dr. Slick is portable and economical. Constructed of stainless steel, it comes in two sizes, 4” and 6”. The 4” model has a medium side (300 grit) and a fine side (600 grit). The 6” model has a heavy side (150 grit) and a medium side (300 grit). (drslick.com)

From $11.95

Umpqua DreamStream Plus 7-Piece Tying Tool Kit

Despite its freshwater name, this is a quality fly tying tool set with nice machining, etched parts for no-slip grip, great hand feel, and a cool blue color. The set includes, bobbin, bobbin threader, bodkin, whip-finish tool, hackle pliers, hair stacker, and 5” scissors. These tools are built to last a lifetime of tying, and even if they don’t, the entire set is under $80. Everything you need including a carrying case. (umpqua.com)

$79.99

Just Add H2O – Fishient

Fish Scale Synthetic Wing and Tail Fibers

We particularly like this product because it’s a blend of synthetic fiber with just the right amount of flash. The pearly twisted flash and crimped nylon simulates the scales of baitfish and makes your flies irresistible to the predator. (fishient.com)

From $6.50

ProLite Electronix Professional LED Light Kit with Magnification Lens

The most versatile lighting system we’ve encountered so far. This 220 lumen CREE LED can be used with provided base, clamped to a bench, or mounted right to your vise stem. Accommodates any position because the light and magnifier (2X general/10X spot magnification) are on independent arms offering infinite combinations when tying. Available through numerous retailers.

$119

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The post Gear Guide – Fly Tying first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Gear Guide – Fly Tying appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Each issue of Tail Fly Fishing Magazine features one or more fly tying step by step tutorial from some of the very best artisans in the world.  See more from Drew Chicone, Ruben Martin, Dron Lee, Rick Worman, Johnny Walshe and many others.

Start your thread at about the 50% point on the shank.  Wrap your thread towards the back of the shank

Tie in about 12 three-inch strands of Hareline Ice wing fiber at the rear of the shank

Cut a clump of arctic fox hair about the width of a pencil and tie it in, wrapping the fox around the ice wing fibers so that the fibers are blended in with the fox. 


Tie in a strand of UV Polar Chenille right in front of where the fox is tied in 


Palmer the UV polar chenille forward five times and tie it off until you reach about the 50% 
mark

Tie in a three-inch wide EP Foxy brush right where you tied off the polar chenille

Advance the thread forward covering the brush wire, making sure you leave about 10% 
of the shank bare

Using a pair of nail clippers or scissors, cut the brush off right at the thread 


Palmer the Foxy brush forward 8 times making sure to pull back the hair with your fingers between each turn 


Tie in the foxy brush, making sure you still leave about 10% of the shank bare 


Using a pair of nail clippers or scissors, cut the brush off right at the thread

Whip finish your thread, making sure to leave part of the hook shank still bare 


Add some head cement to your whip finish

Using a comb, comb backwards blending all the hair and fibers together 


Add a small drop of superglue to the bottom of the fly 


Slide on the Fish Mask, pushing it back enough so you can see about 10% of the bare hook.

Right in front of the fish mask, add a thread base to help secure it 
.  Whip Finish 


Add a coating of Loon Thin UV resin

Cure the resin with UV light for about 10-15 seconds 


Add a small drop of superglue to each eye inset 


Secure your eyes, and you’re finished

Material List:


Hook: Gamakatsu #1-2/0
Thread: White Veevus 140 Power Thread
Tail Fiber: Hareline Dubbin Ice Wing Fiber UV & pearl Minnow mix
Tail: White Arctic Fox Hair
Body 1: Pearl UV Polar Chenille
Body 2: White EP Foxy Brush 3” wide
Head: Flymen Fishing CO Fish skull fish mask size # 5-7
Eyes: Flymen Fishing CO Fish Skull Living Eyes Size 5mm-7mm UV
Resin: Loon Thin UV Resin

Bio: At the age of 27, fly designer and tyer Johnny Walshe of Fly Fixx, has been fishing his entire life. Once he discovered fly fishing, the addiction took hold and Fly Fixx was born. He wanted to start a company that strives to be positive influence, creating a supportive and collaborative community within the industry to promote the sport and help anglers whether they are seasoned or fresh to the sport.

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The post Fly tying step by step – Foxxy Baitfish (White Baitfish Fly) first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Fly tying step by step – Foxxy Baitfish (White Baitfish Fly) appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

This video was made by Jonathan Jones AKA Redbeard, a New Zealand based fly fishing guide and videographer that in addition to trout fishing has a unique saltwater fishery. Seasonally, yellowtail kingfish come in to feed on the flats and can be sight fished for with a fly.  A tagging initiative is underway to help track and study them.  This effort was made possible in part by Smith Optics, Scientific Angler, Howler Brothers, Rising, Trippin on Trout and Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Check out Redbeard on Vimeo and Instagramhttps://vimeo.com/user55034933https://www.instagram.com/redbeard

Read about it in issue 30 of Tail

The post Tag You’re It – Yellowtail kingfish in New Zealand first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Tag You’re It – Yellowtail kingfish in New Zealand appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post BOX IT UP! first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post BOX IT UP! appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Fly Fishing for Yellow Fin Tuna first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Fly Fishing for Yellow Fin Tuna appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post 239 FLIES first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post 239 FLIES appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.