The post Stripers in the Suds – John G. Sherman first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Stripers in the Suds – John G. Sherman appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

One of the redeemable qualities about striped bass is that, when they are plentiful, these fish are incredibly accessible.  We fish for them on foot in downtown Boston, from quiet beaches in Rhode Island, in the brackish water of the Chesapeake Bay, and by boat all the way from North Carolina to Maine.  In fact, data from 2017 shows that almost 18 million angler fishing trips were taken in pursuit of stripers.  That impressive number represents 9% of the total angler fishing trips taken across the entire country (NOAA – Source).  

If you’re a striped bass angler, you likely know that the population is in trouble.  Striper populations are currently at a 25 year low and the age structure is out of whack.  If our fisheries managers at the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission (ASMFC) don’t correct the trajectory, we all stand to lose this iconic resource.  ASMFC is in the midst of trying to adjust their own mismanagement of the striped bass stock and rebuild the population through a new plan.  Anglers aren’t particularly confident in ASMFC, and with good reason, the commission’s track record is less than stellar.  I share this context to simply set the stage.  I’ll halt right there and shift gears.  This is not an article of doom and gloom but rather, one of hope, and a reminder that: 

STRIPED BASS ARE IN OUR HANDS

This year, the angling community will have millions and millions of chances to care for this species.  Anglers pursue striped bass in myriad ways with a number of goals in mind:  some hope to feed their families, some go fishing to simply catch-and-release, and some to make money in the commercial fishery.  Regardless of how you access and utilize the fishery, it is your right to legally operate within the regulations that your state defines.  

Whether you catch-and-release or catch-and-keep, commercially or recreationally, releasing fish is something that all anglers do.  We are all united by the perfect moments of getting a striped bass to hand, regardless of our ambition and regardless if that fish goes to the cooler or back to the ocean.  

According to the most recent Striped Bass Stock Assessment released in 2019, the number of stripers that unintentionally die from catch-and-release angling actually exceeds the number of bass that are recreationally harvested.  To simply break that down, recreational anglers kill more fish by catching and releasing them than by actually intentionally killing them for food.  That fact might come as a surprise to many but ASMFC estimates that 9% of the fish that are caught-and-released throughout the striped bass season die.  These stripers that die from catch-and-release might be a fish gill hooked in Maine’s cold june water, or a gut hooked striper in New Jersey during the fall migration, or a Maryland bass that just couldn’t survive a summer release in a low oxygen environment, or even a bass that was simply held out of water longer than it could handle after a strenuous fight.   

When we slow down and think about each encounter during the season, it becomes clear that careful handling during every single interaction is not only vital to that individual fish’s survival but to the entire future of the striped bass population.  An encounter with a 14” schoolie and it’s safe release potentially solidifies a future 40” warrior bass that crushes menhaden, eats surface plugs, lives for live mackerel, slurps chunk baits and inhales a well placed fly. ASMFC’s most recent stock assessment, estimated that approximately 3.4 million striped bass died from the practice of catch-and-release, the direct result of our handling and angling practices. That’s an enormous number and one that we have control of through our individual behaviors. Yes, we are individual anglers but together we are the users and stewards of this resource and have an enormous impact.  

Keep Fish Wet is an organization focused on helping recreational anglers improve the outcome for each fish they release.  They do this by taking the best available science on how fish respond to capture and handling, and translate the research into simple techniques that anglers can use to ensure that released fish survive and are healthy.  When doing the math, Sascha Clark Danylchuk, Executive Director of Keep Fish Wet, reminds us that if we decrease release mortality by just one percent (something that is very doable using best practices), then over 250,000 more stripers would remain in the fishery.  Those fish that have been given the best chance at survival will live on to support recovering stocks and be caught again another day.  Whether you fish from a center console, the beach, a rocky shoreline, a skiff, or a downtown piece of city concrete, these principles will help to make sure that your catch is released safely.  

• Minimize Air Exposure.  10 seconds or less is best.
• Eliminate Contact with Dry Surfaces.  Wet your hands before touching fish and avoid bringing them into boats.   
• Reduce Handling Time.  Release fish quickly and only revive fish that cannot swim on their own.

We have high hopes that ASMFC sets the management plan for striped bass on a course to rapid recovery, but in the meantime let’s take this fishery in our own hands and safeguard that each fish we release swims off strong and healthy because:

STRIPED BASS ARE IN OUR HANDS  

Expanded Best Practices for Catch-and-Release: 

Below are the best practices you can use to create better outcomes for each striped bass you release.  

Best Practice Principles: 

The actions that will make the most difference to the survival and health of the striped bass you put back – whether because of regulations or voluntarily.  Regardless, we all catch-and-release.

1. Minimize Air Exposure.  10 seconds or less is best.
2. Eliminate Contact with Dry Surfaces.  Wet your hands before touching fish and avoid bringing them into boats.   
3. Reduce Handling Time.  Release fish quickly and only revive fish that cannot swim on their own.

Best Practice Tips:  

Actions that help you employ the Principles

• Use barbless hooks
• Limit your use of lip grippers, and when doing so keep the fish in the water
• Always hold fish with two hands and never hang fish vertically in the air
• Photograph fish in or just over the water  
• If you are fishing from a boat with high gunnels, reach down to meet the fish or use a long handled net.  If you have to bring the fish into the boat, be prepared to make it quick.  Have a hook removal tool at the ready, and get that fish back into the water quickly and gently. 

Written By: Kyle Schaefer in collaboration with Sascha Clark Danylchuk, Andy Danylchuk, and Bri Dostie

Atlantic Striped Bass: Pisces in Peril | Mark White

A NEW NORM FOR MONTAUK’S LEGENDARY RUN

Ted Williams Is On Assignment at the Eastern Funnel

The post Stripers In Our Hands first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Stripers In Our Hands appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

When it comes to flies, I’ve always had an innovative attitude that I believe is due to my occupational background. As an AutoCad draftsman for the better part of 20 years, I’ve been able to use my everyday computer skills at home on my hobbies. When I sleep, I guess you could say that I’m haunted by fish-shaped foam.

Materials

• Hook: Mustad 3407DT O’Shaughnessy (or equivalent), Size 2/0
• Thread: Danville 210 Denier Flat Waxed Nylon
• Head: 2mm Craft Foam Sheet (craft store or fly shop)
• Adhesive: Super Glue
• Loops: 20- to 30-pound monofilament or fluorocarbon, 12 inches
• Beads:  Glass Beads – 3/16” to 1/4” diameter (Typical for 2) (craft store)
• Body: Letera’s 4” Magnum Dubbing by American Tied Flies (or equivalent)
• Eyes: Prism, self-adhesive, 3/16” to 1/4” diameter
• Body Art: Paint Markers, Airbrush, etc.
• Finish Coat: Flex Seal Liquid (Clear) or UV Flex Epoxy

Step 1

Starting at the hook eye, wrap a base of thread toward the bend a little less than half way. Wrap thread back to the eye before beginning step 2.

Step 2

Fold a 12-inch length of mono or fluoro in half, leaving a loop at one end. With the loop end, starting behind the hook eye, use the thread to tie in the mono, keeping both 6-inch lengths side by side on the top of the shank and down the bend, matching the wraps from step 1.

Step 3

Starting with the bobbin hanging near the hook point, place one glass bead on either tag end of the mono. Keeping both tag ends as even as possible, roll the mono forward, creating bead loops. Make about six wraps and adjust the length of the mono loops before continuing to tie in the remainder of the mono.

Step 4

Cut the remaining tag ends of mono behind the hook eye and wrap in completely. When completed, the loops should still be loose enough to allow the beads some freedom of movement.

Step 5

Starting with the bobbin hanging just ahead of the hook bend, tie in the first layer of body hair (belly color). Leave approximately 3 inches of hair extending beyond the bend. Finish wrapping any remaining hair along the hook shank.

Step 6

Matching the start point and length of the first layer, tie in second layer of body hair (back color). This time, pull the forward portion of remaining hair backward to be used as filler. When pulling the hair back, be sure to add a few wraps ahead of the hair to lock it in. Whip finish and prepare the foam head using the provided pattern.

Step 7

Once you have the foam head cut out and pre-glued into a tubular shape, rotate the fly 180 degrees and take a moment to test fit the foam head and see how you would like it to sit. Once satisfied with where the head will be positioned, put the head aside and add a few dabs of Super Glue along the bottom of the hook shank. Using a bodkin or toothpick, spread the glue evenly along the bottom and sides of the shank.

Step 8

Once the glue is spread evenly along the thread, slide the foam head over the hook, being careful not to let the foam touch the glue until it’s in the correct position. Let the glue set to the foam for about 15 seconds.

Step 9

Flip the fly right-side up. If you have not already done so, use a bodkin and poke a hole in the foam lip where it will be pushed over the hook eye. The hole should be approximately 5/16 of an inch up from the end of the lip. Carefully stretch the foam down and over the eye.

Step 10

Add prism eyes and any other body art, if desired. I’ve found both paint markers and airbrush paints hold up well when using a finish coat.

Step 11

Put a finish coat on the entire surface of the foam head. I prefer Flex Seal clear liquid, but it requires 4 to 6 hours of drying time. Use UV Flex Epoxy for faster drying times.

To learn more about Carl Harris’ innovative fly patterns,

you can visit his Online Store, Instagram, or Facebook pages

SUBSCRIBE TO TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

The post Soft Chew Wiggler 2.0 first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Soft Chew Wiggler 2.0 appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Visual excitement aside, there are other good reasons why you should add surface flies—popping bugs, sliders, and hair-heads—to your bag of tricks. First, nothing gets a striper’s attention like a wounded baitfish, and there’s no better way to transmit distress signals than with a popping bug. While a streamer must pass through the fish’s field of vision to trigger a strike, poppers can summon fish from a distance. A striped bass’s lateral line is ever alert to low-frequency waves such as those generated by baitfish in trouble; it gives the fish a sensory “radar” that extends out to around 50 feet. Therefore, the surface commotion generated by a popper or hair-head attracts fish that you may have missed with a more subtle subsurface offering. In short, when fishing for striped bass, don’t hesitate to ring the dinner bell!

Topwater Fly Designs

Surface striper flies fall into two broad categories: popping bugs/sliders and hair-headed streamers. Popping bugs and sliders typically are made of one of three types of material: cork, balsa wood, or most commonly foam (such as the closed-cell foam from which lobster-pot buoys are made). Most striped-bass poppers range from about 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch in diameter, and from 1 inch to an 1 1/2 inches in length, minus the tail. Poppers much larger than this become difficult to cast.

The tails of most popping bugs are made of either bucktail, saddle hackles, or a combination of hackles and marabou. Saddle hackles allow for a longer tail, but the commotion produced by a popping bug creates the illusion of a prey item much larger than the popper’s actual size.

The bodies of sliders tend to be slimmer than those of popping bugs, and the face is often cut to a V. Sliders are meant to move across the surface quietly, creating a wake that the bass still feels. Sliders are particularly good in calm water and, unlike poppers, they can be deadly after dark—especially when bass are picking off small baitfish on the surface. Despite the slider’s subtlety, bass will hit them just as hard as they’ll hit a popping bug. Under the right circumstances, fishing a slider can be like pulling your fly through a minefield.

When fishing shallow over structure like rocks, seaweed, or grass, there’s a chance you could hang up on something other than a fish, and you’ll do well to use a fly that has some buoyancy. Streamers with heads made of spun or flared deer body hair work well in such situations. The late Bill Catherwood’s Giant Killer series of flies are the prototypical hair-heads, dressed in a colorful melange of saddle hackle, marabou, and clipped deer body hair that striped bass find irresistible. A full-size Giant Killer runs seven to nine inches long, and the construction technique doesn’t lend itself well to a fly half that size. So if you’re looking to throw the sardine rather than the full kipper, you’ll do well to go with a more basic pattern. One of my favorite hair-heads is Lou Tabory’s Snake Fly. It sports a wing of of ostrich herl flanked with marabou that has a lot of inherent action in the water. It’s a deadly-effective pattern that’s relatively easy to tie and lends itself to a size-2 to 1/0 hook.

The Outfit

For striped bass, consider the size of the flies you’ll be casting before you consider the size of the fish you might encounter. Although I feel an 8-weight outfit is adequate to handle any striper I’m likely to hook, I often fish a 10-weight rod, simply because it makes casting the largest poppers and hair-heads much easier.

I’ve read about anglers fishing popping bugs with intermediate lines, but I feel a full floating line gives a bug its best action. If you find casting popping bugs a challenge with a standard weight-forward taper (that is, a head in the vicinity of 40 feet), one of the shorter, more compact tapers being produced by such manufacturers as Airflo or Royal Wulff might help you better turn it over.

Striped bass aren’t particularly leader shy, so it’s unnecessary to use a long tapered leader with a popping bug. Six feet of level 15- or 20-pound test monofilament is ideal. Should you wish to build a tapered leader, keep it simple. A three-piece leader no longer than nine feet that tapers to 15- or 20-pound test is sufficient. If there’s a chance you might hook into a bluefish, consider adding eight or so inches of 60-pound mono or wire to the tippet as a bite guard.

Where and When

Popping bugs can be effective wherever bass are found—in tidal rivers, off beaches, in bays, near jetties—but they’re not for all occasions, and I limit their use to specific situations. During the day, I generally won’t use a popper in water less than six feet deep. Shallow-water stripers tend to be spooky, so your chances of catching these fish are better with a streamer. Exceptions to this occur in the spring and fall, when you’re likely to encounter schools of bass smashing bait tight to the shore. During this wild surface feeding a popper can be deadly, as its prominent silhouette and the commotion it causes enable fish to key in on it immediately.

Poppers are also good for attracting fish from deep water. Over holes and drop-offs, where a streamer might go unnoticed, a noisy bug is sometimes just the thing to make the fish come up and take a look.

Popping bugs are also good searching patterns. If you draw a strike with a popper but your next dozen cast casts go unnoticed, switch to a streamer. Conversely, I’ll tie on a popper as a change-of-pace fly when streamers aren’t producing.

The most productive times to fish popping bugs, in my experience, are in the early morning and the late afternoon until nightfall. Although stripers will feed readily on the surface after the sun has set, for reasons I don’t understand, poppers just don’t seem to produce after dark. For proper night fishing I’ll tie on a slider.

Don’t hesitate to drop a popping bug into any likely bass-holding area—the mouth of an inlet or tidal pool (particularly on a falling tide), or in the middle of a rip. In rivers, I’ve had my best success by casting directly across the current. In particular, work the edges and eddies.

If the setting doesn’t lend itself to a popping bug but you’d still like to play the topwater game, don’t hesitate to tie on a hair-head. One of my most memorable hookups came a number of years ago when I was fishing with my old friend, Captain Dave Tracy, who used to guide around Boston and Plymouth. It was a July 4th weekend. We had had some good fishing in the morning, and it was now coming on noon. We had bright sunshine, not a cloud in the sky, and the temperature was approaching 90 degrees. Dave had us drifting along a rocky shore in Plymouth that used to produce well on a coming tide. We were within yards of a crowded sunbathing beach, with fairly heavy boat traffic behind us.

Dave was used to having to produce for clients, so he fished a Clouser Half-and-Half on a sinking line a large percentage of the time. He wanted me to fish one now. I could tell I was annoying him. I was standing on the bow, throwing a full-size Catherwood Herring (one I had dressed—not an original) 90 feet toward shore, then skating it back across the surface in foot-long strips over a field of submerged boulders. (I may have been trying to impress a girl who was with us—I can’t quite remember.)

“You really have confidence in that big fly…?” Dave asked.

I was about to tell him that I had more confidence in the fly than in the location, when a bass appeared from the bottom—if it wasn’t 40 inches, it was close—and slammed the Herring. I was tight to the fish, but instead of running to deeper water it headed toward shore, into the rocks. Seven seconds later, it was all over.

I think Dave and I both learned something that day.

Cast, Retrieve, and Hookset

Some fly anglers believe you must form fairly open loops to cast popping bugs. This applies more to casting weighted flies, which take on their own momentum. (Bringing a weighted fly through a quick change of direction, as you do when you form tight loops, jars the cast.) Popping bugs are more wind-resistant than they are heavy, so forming a tight loop will carry the bug farther, more efficiently, than will an open loop.

When I first began pursuing striped bass with a fly rod, my only previous experience with popping bugs had been fishing them for largemouth bass. In fresh water, a popper can suggest anything from a large insect to a small bird or rodent. In the ocean, however, a popper imitates baitfish, period. The pop-and-wait retrieve so effective in fresh water is useless in the salt. To get a striped bass to smash a popping bug, you’ve got to keep the popper moving.

Start slowly at first, using short strips to move the bug three or four inches at a time, kicking up water every now and then. If that doesn’t draw any strikes, intersperse the retrieve with a few longer strips to suggest the erratic behavior of baitfish in trouble. Convey panic by stripping quickly, skittering the bug across the surface. At times a choppy two-handed retrieve is effective. No matter which retrieve you use, the important thing is to keep the bug moving.

Whether hitting out of curiosity, or attempting to stun prey with a slap of the tail, a striper doesn’t always take a surface fly into its mouth immediately. Raising the rod on such hits will not only result in a miss; it will pull the fly out of harm’s way. Instead of trying to set with the rod tip, keep the rod tip close to the water and pointed at your bug during the retrieve. Pay attention—the interest a striper shows in a popper is often subtle. If you see a swirl behind your bug, or if the bug’s wake seems unusually large—get ready. Chances are a fish is inspecting your fly.

If you rouse a fish but draw no strike, cast back and work the same area again; a striper that’s shown interest seldom passes up a second chance. If the fish strikes, keep your rod down and continue to strip line. That way, if the fish doesn’t take, the bug will still be in position for the fish to take another swipe. I’ve seen bass slap at a bug as many as four times before they finally took it. Only when you feel the weight of the fish should you strike. One sharp strip is often enough to set the hook.

A Floating Sand Eel slider has produced well for me when bass have been slashing at naturals on the surface. I’ve also done well with it when there was no surface activity, usually in calm waters in the evening or at night. With sliders, and particularly after dark, I’ve found a continuous retrieve is most productive. Retrieve the fly hand-over-hand and brace yourself for an explosion—it takes nerve to fish a slider well.

Retrieve hair-heads with single strips of six to 12 inches, or use a continuous retrieve. In heavy current or rips I like to let them swing as you would swing a streamer on a trout river, adding an occasional strip for interest. Although hair-headed flies do absorb water and may eventually sink, they’ll ride close enough to the surface that they’ll remain snag-free, and you’ll still see every take. (To watch a short instructional video on topwater fishing for striped bass, visit my website, the address to which is listed in the byline.)

If catching striped bass on the surface turns out to be your cup of tea, you might consider taking the flies, gear, and techniques to other fisheries. Jack Crevalle love a popping bug, and Puerto Rican tarpon will absolutely crush a Catherwood Giant Killer. Lou Tabory’s Snake Fly is my favorite fly for false albacore, particularly around Harkers Island. Watching a 20-pound tuna launch itself out of the water to clobber your fly may just be enough to get you to put your sinking lines away for good.

Bio: George Roberts produced the first video fly casting program devoted exclusively to salt water: Saltwater Fly Casting: 10 Steps to Distance and Power. He’s also the author of Master the Cast: Fly Casting in Seven Lessons (McGraw-Hill, 2002). For more information on fly casting and fly angling you can visit George’s website: masterthecast.com

SUBSCRIBE TO TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

The post Bass on Top first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Bass on Top appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Growing along the Weweantic River in Wareham, Massachusetts, their white blossoms typically emerged concurrently with the bass’s appearance in Buzzards Bay.

– Joshua Wrigley (previously published in Tail #23 – May 2016)

SUBSCRIBE TO TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

VISIT OUR SHOP 

The post Stripers: Past & Present first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Stripers: Past & Present appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Crisp fall days spent fishing for striped bass in and around the barrier islands of the New Jersey coast are some of my fondest memories.

Driving from Philadelphia to the Jersey Shore meant a 2 hour drive with stops at local farm stands for fresh fruit & vegetables.

The milk, eggs and bacon all came from different stands while the wine was from a liquor store just off the Black Horse Pike. Eventually we would arrive there, station wagon packed to the top. My dad would always roll down the windows of the car as we began our approach onto the numerous causeway bridges. The bridges spanned the bay channels and you could fee the change and smell salt marshes in the air. Dad would take a big deep breath and exhale a huge sigh of appreciation and say “Aaaaahhhhh, fresh air, smell the sea. Can you smell it?” I could.

Almost 40 years later I find myself doing the same thing every time we make the trip.

Our lodging was rustic at best. There was no cable or Internet, there was no microwave or dishwasher. There was no central heat or air, not even heat or enough hot water.

The heat was provided by space heaters; we had to turn the water on and off at the main otherwise the pipes would freeze during the winter months.

It took hours for the water heater to get going and sometimes the self stick floor tiles would pop up from the fluctuations in temperature.  Regardless of its flaws, it was a welcoming home base. There was a local guy who would seemingly appear at various places right next to where we were fishing. He was grizzled and definitely a fishy guy. He reminded us of Quint except he was fair haired and a bit overweight. Later we discovered his name was Donald but we still called him “Ghost” because it didn’t matter what time of day or day of the week, he was always there. Ghost was ubiquitous & would hover and mill around. He would smoke a few cigarettes and assess the group before initiating conversation. Ghost was always polite and cordial, just strange in a fishy kind of way. He would observe the water, observe the anglers, then disappear. We assumed he lived nearby or went back to his truck because his next appearance was with tackle box & gear.

Most times I would fish with my dad, Mr. Christopher and his two sons Anthony & Leonard who were our neighbors and quite fishy themselves. Many times my cousin John would be there also throwing a fly rod.

He was the first person to put a fly rod in my hand when I was about 9.

I caught many things on the fly back then; the trucks on the beach, any nearby angler, and most of the dorsal surfaces of my own body.

Casting proficiently in the surf always was, and probably still is, an ongoing project.

Ghost would inch his way toward us after tying up a few rigs or call over to me.

He would quietly hand me a rod and say tell your dad to cast this out about 20 feet past the break and let it sink. So I did. Within 15 minutes dad hooked up on a fish. It was a 13 pound striped bass and judging by the look on dad’s face, he was very content. It was his first striper from the beach and the Ghost made it happen for him. Next was my turn. Ghost handed me a 12 foot surf rod rigged with a live eel and said “do what your dad just did, don’t let him show you up.” So I chucked this baby eel into the surf and waited. My cousin was using a fly rod about 50 feet to my left, casting with determination & purpose. He never said much, actually the only time he spoke even when fish were busting everywhere was to yell “I’m on, get the net.” I netted a lot of fish for him. Within an half hour John was yelling for the net as he had a fish on the line despite all the live bait in the water. I was so impressed at that moment and I wanted so badly to catch one that way. It was my casting that prevented this of course. My casting just…well it was just terrible for lack of more polite terminology. I really wanted to catch one on the fly but lacked the skill to do it.

Nonetheless, I resumed my role as the net boy for cousin John. I ventured out into the shallow breakers to net his fish, a nice 11 pound striped bass, and as I was doing so Ghost appeared. Ghost was holding the rod he’d just cast and he was handing it to me with a slight smirk and a glimmer in his eye. There was a fish on, there was a fish on. Nice! I bagged the fish for my cousin and splashed my way over to the Ghost almost snatching the rod from him. The water was freezing and I was soaked but it didn’t matter at all. There was a sea monster on the end, or so I believed. It was far from a sea monster but everything is bigger when you’re a ten year old. The long surf rod bent from the brawn and fight of this fish, he took line and yielded only minimally. In the end, my cousin was in the surf finally netting a fish for me. It was my first striped bass of the beach and it was glorious. Over the years that fish got bigger & bigger but it was barley 10 pounds and without a doubt the smallest fish of the outing. It didn’t matter though, it was a striped bass, the coveted fish of the trip, and I caught it. There’s still no heat in the fishing shack in New Jersey. It was nearly destroyed by the super storm of 2012 which devastated the Mid-Atlantic region. This season will be the first time in almost 10 years that we won’t have our autumn striper-fest. Ghost taught us a lot about fishing over the 20+ years that we fished the New Jersey coast. He eventually started running charters and retired just a few years ago. He’s still helping people surf fish though, so if you’re fishing the barrier islands near Atlantic city and a polite but strange guy hands you a rod, just do what he says and pretend you don’t know who he is.

Striped Bass migrate from the lower Mid-Atlantic states & Chesapeake Bay to New England every spring as they are heat intolerant & prefer cooler water. This occurs in April most years but is highly weather dependent. The migration back down from New England usually occurs in September through November, and the best fishing in New Jersey’s barrier islands, near Atlantic City, is probably early to mid October. Surf fishing usually requires being able to cast past the break, at least 60-100 feet, so using a spey rod and sea spey cast is most efficient. Flies that work are miscellaneous bait fish flies, sea serpents, and heavy epoxy head flies that resemble jig heads.

SUBSCRIBE TO TAIL

Who Doesn’t love Roosters?

Costa Rica on the fly – From Marlin to Machaca

Northeast Worm Spawn

Master Fly Tyer Bob Veverka

The post The Ghost – A Striped Bass Story first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post The Ghost – A Striped Bass Story appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The mythical Clouser minnow. It’s a unicorn when tied in white. This is a fly that is much more than the sum of its parts, a classic over/under fly designed by the living legend Bob Clouser himself.  They are beasts at catching fish. This fly design may be responsible for catching more fish than any other pattern in the world. Bob designed a fly that is easy to tie, tough and incredibly versatile. He designed a fly that could catch literally almost any fish that is reachable by a fly and is effective in both salt and fresh water. When the correct materials are applied in the right proportions to a hook they become something almost magical, a juggernaut amongst the legends. The Clouser dives down, jerking violently to the surface when stripped. It seduces fish into violently striking with its wounded bait fish action.

Quick think of a fish. The Clouser can catch it.

Recently on a trip to Mexico for a wedding, I was able to escape for half-a-day to explore some rumored flats right in the hotel district of Cancun. I strung up my 8wt., tied on a unicorn and headed out to the flat I had located with some internet research a few days before. With my white Clouser sailing away, I moved across the flat. Boom, my line goes tight, the first victim to the Clouser’s deadly allure is a blue runner. I want his big cousin to come to the fight. The Clouser gets a little beat up but looking good and is still in for another street fight. We push on.

Within a few minutes the second fish is on the hook. The unicorn displays its mythical powers over fish as a barracuda slams into the fly. My 20 lb. mono is surely no match for the teeth of this ferocious predator. Adult barracuda have a striking power greater than some sharks. The unicorn takes this in stride and lip hooks the toothy rocket. A short fight, some nice jumps and the barracuda comes to hand. Second species today

I continue to cast toward the flat’s edge; the tide has not risen enough to bring the fish up onto the super shallows. My Clouser is now significantly shorter as the deer hair didn’t fare well in the scrap with the cuda. I curse not using super hair. Bruised and beaten up, about 20 minutes later another predator grabs hold of the legendary Clouser. This time a yellow fin mojarra is hooked. I inspect it and pull my beat up fly out of its strange mouth. Lots of moving parts! A picture or two and it’s another smooth release.

At this point in the game you can hardly recognize the fly as a Clouser. I think about changing. I open my box… argh! Wrong box. All I have are Deceivers. Stubbornly, I continue with my beat up fighter. I still want to catch fish!  “Only a few more casts until I will head home,” I tell myself. I cast way past a few. No bites or action for a while and I start to think about my long bus ride home and why I didn’t bring more Clousers. I continue to fish. All of a sudden on a strip, my lines comes tight. The Clouser has done it again! As I fight the fish, I’m trying to guess what it is: horse eye jack, pompano, blue runner? Who knows what I will find on the end of my line. Attached to this worn out old Clouser comes a yellow fin jack, a small one no doubt but my best fight of the day. My fly is spent.

The legendary Clouser has taken its licks today seducing four species into striking. With her dance, she slips through the water teasing and aggravating fish. I will take the Clouser far. Plans are already in place for the next trip. I will travel to Scotland.  I am tracking down the 36/0 hooks and super hair in four foot lengths, my custom 26 wt. rods are being made as we speak. Once and for all I intend to prove the existence of the Loch Ness Monster. The Clouser can do it!

Until next time, do yourself a favor and tie on a Clouser Minnow.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY 

MORE BLOGS ABOUT FLIES & FLY TYING:

Ten Flies You Should Never Be Without

Fly Tying Instructional – Craft Store Crab

Books by Tail Contributors

Characteristics of a Great Bonefish Fly

The post The Magical White Clouser first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post The Magical White Clouser appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

As I was sitting in front of the fireplace this February (don’t laugh, we’ve had WAY too many nights in the 30’s here in South Texas this winter) preparing my fly box for an upcoming trip to the Bahamas I started pondering a question that was posed to me by my good friend Joe: how many fly patterns do you really need. Sitting and opining, I came to the conclusion that I probably carry many many more flies than is necessary. Thinking further, I decided that if you consider the food items of our saltwater quarry, they really all fall into a relatively small group of prey. Although they may look a little different, behave a little differently and be present in varying sizes, there are a small group of flies that I believe are effective regardless of the species you’re pursuing. This is true especially if you’re willing to play with your presentation depending on the species, time of year and the prey you are trying to emulate.

1) “Toad” Fly: I may get a little push-back here from some of the purists as the Toad can be pretty non-specific but I love Toads in all shapes, sizes and colors because of their versatility. Depending on the presentation of this fly it works very well as a bait-fish, crab, shrimp or even an attractor pattern. The key to being successful with the Toad lies in the retrieve. Find the right retrieve and you’ll catch fish.

2) Gotcha: Once again I have chosen the Gotcha pattern for it’s versatility. Although slighter in build than the Toad, the Gotcha can be presented in such a way that it emulates various food items and will draw strikes from a wide variety of game fish whether they’re feeding on small crustaceans or bait fish.
3) Deceiver: Although the Deceiver is not quite as versatile as the previously mentioned patterns, it is in this angler’s opinion the quintessential bait fish pattern. Countless patterns have been derived from the Deceiver over time and many of them work well but if I can only choose one it’s going to be the Deceiver.

4) Clouser: The Clouser, much like the Deceiver, is a versatile bait fish pattern. The coloration, size and retrieve will be the determining factors in the success of this pattern but unlike the Deceiver, the Clouser can be the ticket in deeper water when you need to get down in the water column in order to entice predators.

5) Mantis Shrimp: To this point, my selections have been less specific in nature covering a large array of prey items for various species of game fish. However, I have successfully fished mantis shrimp for nearly every species of warm water game fish in the shallows.

6) Merkin: Also known as Del Brown’s Permit fly or the Carpet Crab. The Merkin is my all time favorite straight crab pattern. Although this fly is specifically a crab, the coloration and size can be changed to fit the specific conditions and game fish. I’ve taken more redfish on the flats on this fly than any other in my box (try it in black for redfish).

7) Crazy Charlie: Although the Crazy Charlie (originally the Nasty Charlie, Orvis changed the name for marketing reason some time ago) is similar in nature to the Gotcha I like having both in my box. I think the vinyl body of the Crazy Charlie gives it more of a 3 dimensional appearance in the water and acts to reflect light better in all directions. Once again, the Crazy Charlie works well as a small baitfish or crustacean depending on the retrieve.

8) Seaducer: The Seaducer, although it may not appear so, is once again a very versatile fly. It suspends well in the water column and if fished with quick, short jerks can pass as a bait fish. However, when fished slower and allowed to breathe I believe that it works well as a large crab imitation. I have taken quite a few bull reds feeding on top on blue crabs with this pattern.

9) Gurgler: Having at least one true top water fly in your box is a must. Even traditional bottom feeders like redfish and bonefish will pound a top water if the conditions are right. Let’s face it, even if quite a few fish strike and miss, there’s nothing quite like a top water explosion at the end of your tippet. I prefer the Gurgler because I believe that the basic design gives you the best opportunity to vary your retrieves in order to create different effects. There are quite a few variations that make this fly a versatile option for all types of fishing.

10) Muddler/Bonefish Slider: Ok, ok I know, these are two different flies that swim and perform differently as they emulate different prey. The Muddler performs well as a baitfish pattern (I’ve probably caught more species of fish on a Muddler than nearly any other fly in my box even when forced to fish that drinkable water) I think the Slider is probably seen as a crustacean (crab) by our finned amigos. However, I couldn’t choose between the two. More than once I’ve been in a hurry and quickly grabbed one instead of the other and caught fish!

BACK TO BLOG

MORE FLY TYING BLOGS:

CRAFT STORE CRAB
CLOUSER MINNOW
CHARACTERISTICS OF GREAT BONEFISH FLIES
SIMPLE REDFISH FLY

SUBSCRIBE TO TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

The post Ten Flies You Should Never Be Without first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Ten Flies You Should Never Be Without appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

(from the Flyfishbonehead species pages)

STRIPED BASS ON THE FLY

STRIPED BASS LOCATIONS
The heaviest concentrations of striped bass on the east coast are from Massachusetts to North Carolina. On the west coast from Oregon to southern California and in land-locked lakes like Lake Mead near Las Vegas and the Santee Cooper reservoir system of South Carolina. They thrive in all kinds of conditions but are seldom caught far from shore. In Massachusetts, for example, they are well known for feeding in the surf of Martha’s Vineyard and Chappaquiddick Island. Conditions here can be challenging for fly fishing but right behind the island is Cape Pogue Pond where the water is often flat calm and perfect for wading and fly casting for stripers. The diversity of habitat for this species is nowhere more obvious than in New York. Montauk Point is legendary for surf fishing for these fish and there are fly fishing enthusiasts who succeed here when conditions are right. Heading back toward New York City is Long Island Sound. This body of water is about 125 miles long with dozens of harbors on both the north shore (Connecticut and Westchester, NY) and the south shore (Long Island and Queens, NY). Every harbor has rock piles and beaches frequented by these fish. Early morning drifting and blind casting works well, as does wading where there is access.

STRIPED BASS FEEDING HABITS
Striped Bass feed most actively at dusk and dawn, although some feeding occurs throughout the day. During midsummer, they tend to become more nocturnal. Stripers are particularly active with tidal and current flows feeding on fish, crabs and clams along the shore as they are tossed about in turbulent water. Striped bass will eat just about anything. They have been caught on every kind of baitfish, sand worms, blood worms, ribbon worms, clams, crabs, squid, and grass shrimp. The problem is they most often are focused feeders; feeding exclusively on one of the above mentioned until full, often switching to something else on the next feeding cycle which is usually tide driven. Many of their food items can be hard to duplicate with a fly. Sometimes the bait guys make out best, but usually a fly works incredibly well. Of all the bait fish around, stripers feed most heavily on sand launce (commonly called sand eels), spearing (commonly called silversides), and menhaden (commonly called mossbunker). The latter is the most difficult to simulate as the body shape of the fish is flat and deep, requiring the materials to stay fluffed in the water rather than collapsing to a thin profile when the fly is stripped in. Using a keeled hook helps keep that shape. When stripers are feeding on baitfish many generic flies of the right shape and color will do the job. The most common are Joe Brooks Blonde series bucktail flies, Lefty’s Deceivers, and Clousers with green and silver being a good bet. All of these can be fished on floating or sinking lines.

.

.

.

.

EQUIPMENT FOR FLY FISHING FOR STRIPED BASS
If you don’t want the expense of having a sinking and floating line or seldom use a sinking line, then a great addition to your arsenal is an Instant Sink Tip System. This is a temporary and simple loop to loop sinking tip that you attach to your fly line and then your leader to it. It is 5 or 6 feet long (depending on main line weight) and will take your fly down at about 5 feet per second, of course not as deep as a true sinking fly line. Note that this weighted addition takes a little getting used to as it changes the dynamics of the way your rod casts since it is “tuned” to the original weight of your fly line.
Then of course there is the aggressive nature of the striped bass. Like all bass, they can be “bothered” into striking. A fly rod popper directed at a sighted target or cast blindly on calm waters is quite irresistible and will usually invoke an explosive strike.
Tackle-wise, most fly rodders chasing striped bass fish 6 to 10 weight lines, the choice governed by wind conditions more than fish size. Most of the fish will be in the 3 to 20 pound range and they fight!  When stripers go on a feeding frenzy, they drive entire schools of baitfish to the surface where water is splashing everywhere, terns and gulls are screaming and diving, and baitfish and bass are flying into the air. Almost any fly will work then. To further demonstrate their range of habitat we look at the East River, Harlem River, Hudson River and New York harbor itself. All of these hold huge numbers of striped bass and with the right conditions (mostly tidal) they are great targets for the fly. To continue enumerating places to fish would just be to drone on. You get the idea; striped bass can be found almost anywhere and are great targets for fly fishing.

BACK TO MAIN BLOG

      SUBSCRIBE TO READ MORE

The post Striped Bass on the Fly first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Striped Bass on the Fly appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Paddleboards and kayaks

These are a more cost effective way to get on the water without an engine. Each with their own set of advantages and disadvantages. Kayaks put you lower to the water and keep you in a seated position, making it harder to cast.  Larger fishing kayaks double as paddleboards and it is safe to stand in them. Generally the larger the boat the larger the price tag. Stand up kayaks sometimes require a truck or a trailer to transport.  Paddleboards can be harder to paddle and be less efficient, but provide for easier casting due to the fact that you are already standing. Companies like Bote and Jackson Kayak are making fishing specific paddleboards, complete with tackle racks to hold your rods.

Choosing can be difficult because there are many factors besides price that come into play.  How easy is it to transport and store?  How quiet is it on the water? How far can does it need to go for a giving outing?  If you struggle with balance, a kayak is the way to go. Both of these options work well for fishing mangroves and intercoastal waterways. While they are far more affordable than a boat, they can still be pricey.   A decent inflatable board starts around a $ 1,000 and a fully kitted fishing board running upwards of $2,000.  Some of the larger stand up fishing kayaks approach the $3000 range if you load it with options.

Remember to follow U.S Coast Guard Regulation and bring out a PFD (life Jacket). It’s better to lose your rod than your life if you tip over.

Walk the Beach

Striped bass, snook, redfish and even the occasional tarpon can be found cruising the beach. During winter months many shrimp runs occur as well as baitfish migrations.  Often times  predatory fish make their way to the beach to feed. When fishing the beach remember to cover a lot of water if you do not know where the fish will be. This means walk the beach, always looking for fish or bait balls. The more water you explore, the greater your odds of seeing a fish are.

Catching a fish crashing on the shore can be incredibly exciting. When targeting any fish try and figure out what they are feeding on. It may sound obvious but it can be important. When fish are keyed in on something like sardines, they will often only eat flies that look exactly like the bait fish. Remember, the predatory fish are there for a reason, to eat something specific, so match the hatch.  Nothing is more frustrating than throwing a fly in front of a hungry fish and watch it swim by.

The beach provides for stability and room for backcasting so don’t be afraid to throw some line. If you know where fish will be hanging out a ladder can be an option. Standing on a ladder makes spotting fish easier and can make casting easier by putting you high above the water. But be careful, ladders can become unstable and sketchy. A stripping basket can become your best friend, keeping all of your line ready to cast and organized in front of you. Not every angler enjoys using a stripping basket, but they are worth a try.

Most importantly, wherever you are, make sure that fishing is allowed on the beach you plan on fishing at.

Talk to the local fly shop

If you can find a fly shop near by, walk in and pick their brain. They are usually more than happy to point you in the right direction. Some fly shops are more friendly and more helpful than others. However most will genuinely help you out, they love fishing just like us and want to talk about it. Keep in mind that a fly shop will not tell you their favorite secret spot, but any fishing spot is better than none. But no matter what type of help you receive, do not walk out of the store empty handed, that is simply rude. At least pick up a few flies or somthing and thank them for their help.

Make friends

Easier said than done most of the time.   Not everyone you meet will be happy to take you out on their boat.  Even if they are scheduling and availability will undoubtedly diminish your time on the water. Odds are if you live near water you can find someone that has access to a skiff and convince them to take you fishing. Do not take access to a boat for granted, sometimes being “that” guy who is gracious and respectful gets you the invite. Remember some simple boat etiquette if you do score a ride.

1. Always offer to pay for gas
2. Always buy beer
3. You can not thank whoever took you out on their boat enough

Remember that if you are on someone’s boat, follow their rules. If they say no shoes, then don’t wear your shoes. Keep in mind, most shoes scuff up the deck of the boat anyway. Bring food and drink if you have enough notice and make sure you don’t make poling difficult for the captain. Quite sure if you move erratically and make someone fall off the poling platform, it will likely be your last day on that boat.  Alway offer to help clean their boat after you use it as well, it not today, then sometime.

Not being able to get on a skiff should not take away your time on the water. Grab your rod and get after it!

The post Beached: Fly Fishing Without a Boat first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Beached: Fly Fishing Without a Boat appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.