Tying and Fishing The Everglades Seven

Go-to patterns for the Glades

by Chico Fernandez 

I’ve fly fished in many places around the world, from Tierra del Fuego to Alaska, and I love it all. But when it comes to my favorite place to fly fish, it would be, hands down, the Everglades.

It’s not just about the snook, the redfish, and all the other wonderful fish that live there. It’s also about the wading birds, the beautiful shallow flats with the fluctuating tides, the red mangrove trees along most of the shorelines, the other menagerie of trees, plants, and flowers, and so much more. I love that world. I love brackish water—I feel it runs through my veins.

It’s no coincidence that today I live about 90 minutes from the Everglades—and go as often as I can.   Learn more about fishing the Everglades Click Here to Subscribe or Pick Up the Latest Issue

Chico’s First Fly Pick is Marabou Madness

For a long time, I had an idea for tying an all-marabou Sea-Ducer. Then, while working on my redfish book around 2011, I finally put a No. 1 hook in the vise and started to tie one. After a few weeks of trial and error, I had a fly I liked. The tail was a whole marabou feather, stem and all, with a bit of flash. The head was marabou feathers wrapped around the shank.

Learn tie and fish The Seven Everglades Patterns  Click Here to Subscribe or Pick Up the Latest Issue

The post The Everglades Seven first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post The Everglades Seven appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Step by step fly tying instructions

Materials list:

• Medium Double Barrel Popper and Slider Bodies from Flymen Fishing Company
• Surface Seducer Popper hook #2
• White Marabou
• Pearl Crystal Flash
• Red MFC Bunny Brush
• Living eyes from Flymen Fishing Company
• White flat waxed nylon thread

Step 1

Use a bodkin or a large needle to create the hole for the hook shank to slide through. Be sure to start at the rear of the popper head and gently push straight thru to the front of the popper head.

Step 2

Place the hook in the vise and slide the popper head onto the shank of the hook to ensure proper fit.

Step 3

Begin the thread wraps just behind the hook eye and wrap evenly back to just before the bend of the hook.

Step 4

Tie in the Marabou tail and secure evenly. I personally like to parachute post the tail once tied in to help prevent fouling. Once posted I secure the tail lightly back towards the hook shank.

Step 5

Tie in a few strands of pearl crystal flash on each side of the marabou.

Step 6

Tie in the bunny brush just in front of the marabou and secure evenly.

Step 7

advance the thread forward to where the back of the popper will be. Then palmer the bunny brush forward using caution not to trap the fibers while palmering forward. Once palmered all the way to the thread secure the brush and trim off excess.

Step 8

Whip finish and trim off the thread. Add a small amount of super glue to the thread wraps and attach popper head ensuring a proper fit.

Step 9

Glue in desired eyes to recessed eye socket.

Step 10

GO FISH

All Photos by: Michael Klein

Fly tied by Capt. Rick Worman of Flatline Guide Service located in Merritt Island FL,  Special thanks to Harry Goodes Outdoor shop located in Melbourne Fl.

Saltwater Fly Tying – The Salty Stripper

Flat-Wing Sand Eel | Barry Ord Clarke

Candy Corn Crawler

The post Saltwater Popper first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Saltwater Popper appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

My good friend E. J. Sigety is a very skilled fly angler, creative fly tier, and a wealth of fly fishing knowledge. One of his favorite smallmouth bass patterns is the Lazy Stripper SBS. In this feature we’re going to put a salty twist on the pattern. We’ve dubbed this fly the Salty Stripper SBS. It’s an effective pattern to throw into the mangroves for snook and baby tarpon. You can also tie it larger to throw at big laid-up tarpon using an 11- weight. The marabou tail gives this fly amazing action even at a standstill, while the synthetic EP fiber head and body make it very functional and durable.

Materials:

• Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 or similar, 2/0
• Threads: Danville 210 Denier Thread (any color); Danville Monofilament Thread (.006 diameter)
• Adhesive:  Zap Goo   
• Tail: Marabou, white and olive
• Flash: Gold Flashabou and gold Krystal Flash
• Gills: Red EP Silky Fibers
• Body and Head: EP Sculpt-A-Fly Fibers, sand and white
• Eyes: EP Plastic Eyes, 5.5 millimeters

Step 1. Start with any color of Danville 210 thread. We’ll eventually switch to mono, but standard thread makes tying in the first materials much easier. Attach your thread on the shank above the hook point and wrap back to above the barb. Trim off the tag end.

Step 2. Take one white marabou feather and measure your tail length. For a 2/0 fly we normally use about a 2-inch section. secure that tightly to the top of the shank with thread wraps.

Step 3. Measure your olive marabou feather. You want this to be just a bit longer than the white marabou. Secure this on top of the white marabou and trim the excess.

Step 4. Take several stands of gold Flashabou and V-wrap it along both sides of the tail so that it runs down the middle of the olive marabou feather. Trim the strands so that they’re about a half-inch longer than the marabou. After that’s secure, take about five strands of gold Krystal Flash and tie them in so they rest directly on top of the marabou.

Step 5. Move your thread in front of where the feathers are secured, whip finish, and cut your thread. Attach your monofilament thread where you left off and hit it with a dab of Zap Goo. Next, take a 2-inch length of red EP Silky Fibers and V-wrap on the bottom 2 quarters of the hook shank. These are going to suggest the fish’s gills. Once secure, press the fibers up and trim them at an angle.

Step 6. Take your sand-colored EP Sculpt-A-Fly Fibers and prepare the three pieces you’ll need to make the body and head of the fly. (You’ll also do the same with the white fibers.) Each piece you tie in will get progressively shorter. Begin with a bunch that’s about 50 fibers thick. When you twist them to compress them, they should be about the same thickness as a toothpick (always err on the side of fewer fibers). Prepare by cutting a sand-colored section that’s 3 inches long, a section that’s 2 1/2 inches long, and a section that’s 2 inches long. Then prepare three sections of white fibers as well in the same lengths as above. Once all six sections are measured and cut, put a taper on each end of all sections. Doing this before you tie them in will help with post-production trimming and avoid creating a fly that looks like a paintbrush. Take your 3-inch section of sand-colored fibers and secure them at midpoint with several wraps of mono to the top left quarter of the hook shank. Bend the other half of the fibers around and tie them down the top right quarter. The result should look like Image 6a.

Step 7. Rotate the head of the vise or invert the hook and tie in the 3-inch section of white fibers along the bottom of the hook shank in the same manner. The result should look like Image 7a.

Step 8. Move your thread forward and repeat the above instructions with both of your 2 1/2-inch sections, and then again with your 2-inch sections. If, along the way, the fibers start to puff out or get tangled, combing them with a lice brush should fix things. When you’ve fastened all sections, your fly will resemble that in Image 8.

Step 9. Because you took the time to taper the ends of the fiber sections before you tied them in, your trimming time should now be significantly less. Take your scissors and simply clean up the fly a bit to suggest a baitfish form. (I highly recommend the EP 4 1/2-inch scissors, which are excellent for trimming synthetics).

Step 10. Use a cautery pen to burn two small holes in the fibers to place the eyes. These holes should be burned even with the point of the hook. Use flush cutters to snip off most of the posts of the plastic eyes. Use a bodkin to place a generous amount of Zap Goo in one of the eye holes. Place a plastic eye into the glue-filled hole so that the post is both covered with glue and touching the shank of the hook. Repeat on the opposite side of the fly. If you do this correctly the eyes will be bulletproof.

Bio: Nick Davis is the co-owner of 239 Flies & Outfitter in Bonita Beach, Florida, which began as an online retailer selling one-off fly patterns and now occupies 2,600 feet of retail space. You can learn more about Nick and 239 Flies by visiting his website (239flies.com) or his Instagram (#BuildingFuzzyEmpires).

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Worm Swarming—At Long Last

Flat-Wing Sand Eel | Barry Ord Clarke

Soft Chew Wiggler 2.0

Candy Corn Crawler

The post Saltwater Fly Tying – The Salty Stripper first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Saltwater Fly Tying – The Salty Stripper appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

When it comes to flies, I’ve always had an innovative attitude that I believe is due to my occupational background. As an AutoCad draftsman for the better part of 20 years, I’ve been able to use my everyday computer skills at home on my hobbies. When I sleep, I guess you could say that I’m haunted by fish-shaped foam.

Materials

• Hook: Mustad 3407DT O’Shaughnessy (or equivalent), Size 2/0
• Thread: Danville 210 Denier Flat Waxed Nylon
• Head: 2mm Craft Foam Sheet (craft store or fly shop)
• Adhesive: Super Glue
• Loops: 20- to 30-pound monofilament or fluorocarbon, 12 inches
• Beads:  Glass Beads – 3/16” to 1/4” diameter (Typical for 2) (craft store)
• Body: Letera’s 4” Magnum Dubbing by American Tied Flies (or equivalent)
• Eyes: Prism, self-adhesive, 3/16” to 1/4” diameter
• Body Art: Paint Markers, Airbrush, etc.
• Finish Coat: Flex Seal Liquid (Clear) or UV Flex Epoxy

Step 1

Starting at the hook eye, wrap a base of thread toward the bend a little less than half way. Wrap thread back to the eye before beginning step 2.

Step 2

Fold a 12-inch length of mono or fluoro in half, leaving a loop at one end. With the loop end, starting behind the hook eye, use the thread to tie in the mono, keeping both 6-inch lengths side by side on the top of the shank and down the bend, matching the wraps from step 1.

Step 3

Starting with the bobbin hanging near the hook point, place one glass bead on either tag end of the mono. Keeping both tag ends as even as possible, roll the mono forward, creating bead loops. Make about six wraps and adjust the length of the mono loops before continuing to tie in the remainder of the mono.

Step 4

Cut the remaining tag ends of mono behind the hook eye and wrap in completely. When completed, the loops should still be loose enough to allow the beads some freedom of movement.

Step 5

Starting with the bobbin hanging just ahead of the hook bend, tie in the first layer of body hair (belly color). Leave approximately 3 inches of hair extending beyond the bend. Finish wrapping any remaining hair along the hook shank.

Step 6

Matching the start point and length of the first layer, tie in second layer of body hair (back color). This time, pull the forward portion of remaining hair backward to be used as filler. When pulling the hair back, be sure to add a few wraps ahead of the hair to lock it in. Whip finish and prepare the foam head using the provided pattern.

Step 7

Once you have the foam head cut out and pre-glued into a tubular shape, rotate the fly 180 degrees and take a moment to test fit the foam head and see how you would like it to sit. Once satisfied with where the head will be positioned, put the head aside and add a few dabs of Super Glue along the bottom of the hook shank. Using a bodkin or toothpick, spread the glue evenly along the bottom and sides of the shank.

Step 8

Once the glue is spread evenly along the thread, slide the foam head over the hook, being careful not to let the foam touch the glue until it’s in the correct position. Let the glue set to the foam for about 15 seconds.

Step 9

Flip the fly right-side up. If you have not already done so, use a bodkin and poke a hole in the foam lip where it will be pushed over the hook eye. The hole should be approximately 5/16 of an inch up from the end of the lip. Carefully stretch the foam down and over the eye.

Step 10

Add prism eyes and any other body art, if desired. I’ve found both paint markers and airbrush paints hold up well when using a finish coat.

Step 11

Put a finish coat on the entire surface of the foam head. I prefer Flex Seal clear liquid, but it requires 4 to 6 hours of drying time. Use UV Flex Epoxy for faster drying times.

To learn more about Carl Harris’ innovative fly patterns,

you can visit his Online Store, Instagram, or Facebook pages

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The post Soft Chew Wiggler 2.0 first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Soft Chew Wiggler 2.0 appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

I developed the Candy Corn Crawler primarily as a redfish pattern for Florida’s central coasts. Obviously its application doesn’t stop there. If tied smaller it can certainly entice some bonefish and even permit. Mixing up the colors on this fly can produce some very effective variants as well. I often tie it in Chartreuse/Olive as well as Purple/Yellow. This was the fly we fished the most during a recent trip to Louisiana last November.

Now that you have the down low on this pattern, here’s how to make them. Be sure to whip a few up and test them out in your local waters.

Candy Corn Crawler

Step 1: Stick an SC15 in the vise and lay down a solid thread base from the eye of the hook all the way past the hook bend.

Step 2: Use figure 8 wraps and underbelly wraps to secure the Double Pupil Eyes to the hook shank.

Step 3: Tie in a pinch of Orangutan Colored Pseudo Hair to the back end of the hook just past the bend.

Step 4: Tie in a pinch of Sand Colored Pseudo Hair directly on top of the first layer and secure it.

Step 5: Tie in 1.5” Sand Colored Foxy Brush right after the Pseudo Hair.

Step 6: Palmer the Foxy Brush around the hooks shank 3 times moving towards the eye of the hook and then tie it off.

Step 7: Cut the Foxy Brush and put a few thread wraps over the remaing tab.

Step 8: Select two Orange/Black Legs from the patch.

Step 9: Wrap the legs around the thread of the hook before tying them in.

Step 10: Tie the legs in right after the foxy brush.

Step 11: Trim the legs to desired length. I like them to be just a tad bit shorter than the length of the Pseudo Hair.

Step 12: Tie in Rust Colored 1.5” Foxy Brush.

Step 13: Palmer the Rust Colored Foxy Brush three times while moving towards the eye of the hook and then tie it off.

Step 14: Tie in Tan .5” Wooly Critter Brush right in front of the Foxy Brush.

Step 15: Palmer the Wooly Critter Brush forward and secure it up in font of the dumbell eyes.

Step 16: Trim off the Wooly Critter Brush and cover up the remaining tab.

Step 17: Select a short piece of 30 mono for the weed guard and crimp one end of it to help minimize bulk after it is tied in.

Step 18: Tie the weed guard in just in front of the dumbbell eyes.

Step 19: Whip finish the fly and cut the thread.

Step 20: Finish the fly by using Loon UV Thick to secure the thread wraps for a long lasting fly.

Jesse Males Bio: As a fly fisherman growing up on Florida’s Nature Coast, I had plenty of access to shallow flats to chase redfish, trout, snook, and tarpon as well as awesome river systems to fish for largemouth bass and bluegill. The more I fly fished, the more I saw the need to share my trips and info with other fly anglers. That led me to develop my main website www.backwaterflyfishing.com. This site serves as a blog as well as a hub for fly tying information and HD fly tying videos. I also run an online fly shop, www.backwaterflies.com, where fly anglers can purchase my favorite fly patterns, including the Candy Corn Crawler. 

Two and a half years ago I began an incredible journey by moving down to Costa Rica. Since then I have explored most of the country (aside from some very remote areas) and landed some amazing fish along the way. I currently run a guiding business here in Costa Rica with my good friends Micah Baly and Mark Evans. You can find info on all our guided trips at www.506outdoors.com. As for social media, be sure to catch up with me by following me on Facebook and Instagram at @backwaterflyfishing.

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The post Candy Corn Crawler first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Candy Corn Crawler appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Loon Outdoors UV Infiniti Light

This UV light is powerful enough to cure fly after fly in seconds, and when it runs out of power there’s no need to fumble around looking for batteries because you can recharge it using any standard USB cable. Before long tying sessions you can check the light’s power status using the power level indicator that’s integrated into the on/off switch. Throw in Loon’s unconditional guarantee and you have the last UV light you will ever buy. (loonoutdoors.com)

$60.00

Regal Medallion Vise

The Regal Medallion is a perfect example of the old adage, “Buy once, cry once.” Just open the jaws, insert the hook, and start tying. There’s nothing to adjust. When using the Regal Medallion you don’t think about it, which is exactly how a vise should be. You can tie 8/0 streamers for arapaima down to size-22 midges for trout. The jaws are solid, and the heavy base keeps the vise firmly planted on your tying desk. The Medallion series comes with a choice of six different heads, so you can pick the one best suited to your tying style. (regalvise.com)

$275

Petitjean Magic Heads

The work of Swiss fly fishing innovator Marc Petitjean is nothing short of genius, from his cutting-edge vises to his tying tools and accessories. Magic Heads are soft, clear plastic cones that you tie just behind the eye of the hook. Pushed back, they create a soft bullet head that will push water. Flipped forward, they act as a swimming lip, zigzagging your fly through the water like a terrified baitfish. The largest size will accommodate flies sizes 1/0 to 4/0. (petitjean.com)

$6.95

Renzetti Ruby Tipped Bobbins

Next to a good vise, a good fly tying bobbin is among your most important tools. And there’s nothing more frustrating than to have your thread repeatedly cut by a burr in the tube. Renzetti’s ruby tipped bobbins feature an industrial ruby inserted into the tube that will keep the thread moving smoothly and ensure that your thread never gets cut. Available in two saltwater sizes. These bobbins will last 25 years of continuous use. (renzetti.com)

$22.95

Norvise Automatic Bobbin Kit

If you’ve attended a fly fishing show within the last 25 years, you’ve likely watched Norm Norlander spin out Woolly Buggers at breakneck speed on his rotary Nor-Vise. His automatic bobbin is a noteworthy contribution to fly tying as well. The bobbin features a self-winding arbor that simplifies thread management. The bobbin retracts automatically to the proper position and then hangs suspended from the fly where released. This results in faster, better fly tying. These bobbins work particularly well with rotary vises. You can purchase the automatic bobbin separately, but first-time owners are encouraged to get the kit, which includes three extra spools (required for use with this bobbin), which hold between 50 and 500 yards of thread, depending on the thread diameter. (nor-vise.com)

$95.00

Wapsi German Ice Tempered Fly Tying Scissors by Wasa

Good scissors are critical to good fly tying, particularly when trimming deer hair heads and synthetic materials. Scissors that can handle such work well are few and far between. These scissors, manufactured in Solingen, Germany, are 4 ½” overall with double serrated fine-tip blades of 1 ¾” that will more than get the job done. (wapsifly.net)

$69.00

ThinOptics Readers

Unless you never tie a fly smaller than 4/0, you’ll eventually need a pair of readers. ThinOptics combines the world smallest readers with a number of carry options, including cases small enough to fit on your keychain, in your wallet, or on your phone. They’re inexpensive enough that you’ll want several pair, including one for your fly tying kit. We take ours fishing for when we need to tie on flies, repair leaders, or for any task that requires near vision. Readers come in four lens strengths and six frame colors. (thinoptics.com)

Starting at $19.95

Hareline Dubbin Bling Rabbit Strips

Winner of the International Fly Tackle Dealer’s (IFTD) Best in Show Award for 2019 in the category of Fly Tying Materials, Bling Rabbit Strips incorporate solid and holographic colors attached to the hide. The synthetic material gives rigidity to the strip, reducing the chance that the material will foul when casting. These strips are sure to enhance the look and performance of any saltwater pattern that calls for a zonker strip (think Tarpon Bunny). (hareline.com)

$5.90

Dr. Slick Hook File

In truth, all of us here at TFFM use chemically sharpened hooks. If we ding a hook point, we throw the fly away and get a fresh one. However, we realize not all anglers are like us and that most probably still use stainless steel hooks (as we all did at one time). If you use stainless steel hooks (or plated carbon steel hooks that are not chemically sharpened) you need to carry a hook file. This option from Dr. Slick is portable and economical. Constructed of stainless steel, it comes in two sizes, 4” and 6”. The 4” model has a medium side (300 grit) and a fine side (600 grit). The 6” model has a heavy side (150 grit) and a medium side (300 grit). (drslick.com)

From $11.95

Umpqua DreamStream Plus 7-Piece Tying Tool Kit

Despite its freshwater name, this is a quality fly tying tool set with nice machining, etched parts for no-slip grip, great hand feel, and a cool blue color. The set includes, bobbin, bobbin threader, bodkin, whip-finish tool, hackle pliers, hair stacker, and 5” scissors. These tools are built to last a lifetime of tying, and even if they don’t, the entire set is under $80. Everything you need including a carrying case. (umpqua.com)

$79.99

Just Add H2O – Fishient

Fish Scale Synthetic Wing and Tail Fibers

We particularly like this product because it’s a blend of synthetic fiber with just the right amount of flash. The pearly twisted flash and crimped nylon simulates the scales of baitfish and makes your flies irresistible to the predator. (fishient.com)

From $6.50

ProLite Electronix Professional LED Light Kit with Magnification Lens

The most versatile lighting system we’ve encountered so far. This 220 lumen CREE LED can be used with provided base, clamped to a bench, or mounted right to your vise stem. Accommodates any position because the light and magnifier (2X general/10X spot magnification) are on independent arms offering infinite combinations when tying. Available through numerous retailers.

$119

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The post Gear Guide – Fly Tying first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Gear Guide – Fly Tying appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

(originally published in Tail #26 – November/December 2016)

All hooks have an eye, shank, gap, point, and (usually) a barb. Each component of a hook plays an important role in catching a fish but not all hooks are the same. With so many hook styles available, it can be a difficult task to sort through the noise. Many anglers eventually settle on a few styles that fit their fishing needs so this short tutorial may help you make your decisions.

For beginners, this will get you started off right and for you grizzled old goats, it will serve best as a quick refresher. Nonetheless, this is good intel when preparing for your next outing.

The Eye

The hook eye is the connection point to the tippet. Ringed eyes are the most common. The metal is bent in a uniform loop and the end sits flush against the shank. Braised, flattened, needle, looped and tapered are some other types of hook eyes but they tend to be used for specific applications. Looped are typically used for wet flies for salmon and steelhead. The others have no real consequence to us unless you are fishing blue water in which case a braised hook would be best. This is because it is a finished closed circle on the end of the hook and there are no edges to wear down your leader like on a ringed eye hook. The eye can bend up, be straight or bent down.  Many question if the direction of the eye matters. Short answer is no, it does not. But there are two wide spread myths that exist to propagate the confusion.

Myth 1 – The direction of the hook eye affects the angle of pull on the fly and this angle will affect how well the fly hooks the fish.

Myth 2 – The direction of the hook eye affects the hooking gape. A down eye hook will have less hooking ability and should be avoided because it narrows the hooking gape.

Neither one of these are true. The reality is that despite the bend of the eye, the fly will move in a straight line in the direction it is being pulled.  That being said, the start-up motion of the fly when pulled should theoretically swing the point of the hook downward and into the jaw of a fish. Because of this, we do use up-bent eyes for some topwater and mid-column flies but again, there is no evidence that this is accurate or factual.  Why not give it a try though if there is no difference in fly presentation?

The Shank

The shank is the section from the eye to where the bend starts. Shanks come in short, medium or long and they are either straight or bent. The bent shank hooks are used in flats fishing particularly for bonefish though the only real advantage is a wider gap and different look to the fly. Short shanks are often used for finesse fishing when a compact hook and minimal weight are critical to presentation success. When we talk about presentation, we must point out that many tarpon flies are tied on short shank hooks with wide gaps. Medium shanks are the most common and can be used in almost every situation. They seem to be the general purpose hooks.

Long shanks are used to match a longer profile baitfish so most streamers and baitfish patterns use a long shank and are almost always straight.

The Gap

The gap is the size of the bend in a hook from the shank to its point. An average size gap will do in most situations but sometimes a wide gap is needed. A wide gap is used for tying flies that are bulky to ensure that the point the hook of will be exposed on the set.  They are also used to ensure that there is a good hook set on blue water species like sailfish and marlin as well as flats species like tarpon, permit and bonefish. The wide gap is a bit more generous if you are setting the hook. This offers the angler a little bit more time and grab.

The Point

This is the tapered end of the hook and the sharp point that penetrates the mouth and jaw.  Shapes include needle, knife edge, spear or rolled. Most common is the needle which is a tapered point. Somewhat popular are the cutting point hooks which have 3 or 4 sides instead of a taper. Cutting points are believed to be more damaging to fish and are not used as frequently as expected. With regard to points, there are two major types of hooks: chemically sharpened hooks and all the others. Chemically sharpened hooks utilize a chemical in the final step to remove microscopic burrs and roughness which cause friction and make the hook seem dull. If you look at a chemically sharpened hook under magnification it will be visibly smoother than a non-chemically sharpened hook. The cost for the chemical sharpening is steep in comparison to the other, but most anglers will notice a huge difference. If you can’t spend the money on the chemically sharpened hooks, buy yourself a file and hone those points. It really does matter.

The Barb

The barb holds the hook in place once it penetrates the jaw. The larger the barb, the more difficult it is for the fish to get the free. [or for the point to penetrate the fish’s mouth] Catch and release anglers pinch barbs with pliers for easy hook removal. You might lose a few fish but it is less damaging to the mouth area.  We recommend barbless fishing except with billfish as you usually cannot afford to lose many, especially when fishing for striped marlin.

Hopefully this will improve, refresh or revitalize your fundamental knowledge of the tools you need to be successful.  Tight lines until next time.

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The post Anatomy of a Hook first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Anatomy of a Hook appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

Consider the Ostrich

The post Consider the Ostrich first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Consider the Ostrich appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

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The post I’m Not Hungry Today first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post I’m Not Hungry Today appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

I have fished my whole life, and have tried all types of fishing. Fly fishing from the beach is my favorite. I grew up on Long Island, N. Y. where I first started fishing in the saltwater. I like fishing the Northeast Coast for Striped Bass, Bluefish and False Albacore. Night fishing for Striped Bass is wild and one of my favorite types of fly fishing. My first choice would be on a deserted Baja beach hunting for Roosterfish: they are the ultimate gamefish species to hook from the beach on a fly. We moved to Vermont in 1980. Long winters gave me much time at the vise. In 1980 I started a small fly tying business “Counterfeiters In Feathers.” I supplied fly fisherman with Atlantic Salmon, Steelhead and saltwater flies that were headed for Russia, Canada, the Caribbean and beyond. I fish the lakes and ponds of Vermont for Trout and Land-lock Salmon, I originated several flies for this type of fishing, landlocked Salmon Streamers. The Counterfeiter and Quaniche Sunset were tied to fish Magog and Lake Champlain. During the summer we fish for Smallmouth Bass and Northern Pike. I’ve tied all styles of flies and at one time held many fly tying classes for Atlantic Salmon and steelhead flies. I am an Umpqua Fly Designer and on the pro staff at Deer Creek and Temple Fork Outfitters. I designed a Classic return eyed Atlantic Salmon and Steelhead hook with Angler Sport Group and Daiichi, it’s called Bob Veverka’s “Classic Salmon Hook.” My Umpqua Feather Merchants contracted fly, Veverka’s Mantis Shrimp is one of the top flies for Bone Fishing in the Bahamas. I’ve tied flies at many fishing shows all over the United States. My flies have been featured in several books including these and several others: Steelhead and Blue Water fly fishing by Trey Combs.

Tying Classic The Classic Salmon Fly by Mike Radencich The Atlantic Salmon Fly by Judith Dunham Fishing Atlantic Salmon by Pam and Joe Bates Bonefish Fly.
Patterns by Dick Brown. I also published two books of my own, Innovative Saltwater flies and Spey flies, published by Stackpole Books. I have written several articles for magazines, Fly tyer, Fly Fishing The West, Wild Steelhead and Fish and Fly. Recently I have done a few articles on the web, Blue Water Days / Tequila Nights on the fly Fishing Forum and Roosterfish Capital Of The World on Reel-time.com. Both relate to the fishing to be had in Baja Mexico. One describes the offshore and inshore fishing and the other Beach fishing for Roosterfish on the East Cape of Baja.I did an article for my Mantis Shrimp on Denecki’s web-site. My “Fishing The Beach” page can be reached at www.facebook.com/fishingthebeach I am retired from my real job, 35 years with the United states Postal Service. Now I tie flies, fish and try to stay out of trouble and most important, Have Fun. You probably figured it out, but this is the condensed resume of Bob Veverka. Fisherman, innovator, and gentleman. Bob was kind enough to do an interview with Tail Fly Fishing Magazine earlier in the winter months of 2013. He will likely be in Cabo chasing roosters in July, prime time for beach fishing in Mexico.

Before a trip to the Bahamas for bonefish I looked at my fly box and needed something different, my own design. I felt Shrimp is a Bonefish’s favorite food. I tied it in natural colors to fit in a Bonefish’s environment, tan. The design pattern of the legs is what gives this fly an edge over others. They look natural and move separately from each other. It’s a fly a fly fisherman looks at and sees it looks like a shrimp and so I feel they fish this pattern with confidence. Other flies I carry for bonefish include the Gotcha and the Simran, the Simran is a great fly and I use it and the Mantis Shrimp as my two go-to flies. I feel with these two patterns you can catch bonefish anywhere.

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The post Master Fly Tyer Bob Veverka first appeared on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

The post Master Fly Tyer Bob Veverka appeared first on Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.